Photo: Seal Cove camp

The soft warm light of the long evening produced again a spectacular sunset; the early storm was long gone. There was no rush in preparing dinner to avoid cooking with headlamp as darkness would come after we had already retired to our tents. Laying on the polished rock we exchanged paddling stories: my tropical sandy beaches compared to Scandinavian granite labyrinth. I was still surprised that I managed to meet up with Pia and Erik on the water among so many islands that all looked the same.
As we were sipping our best moonshine a black head appeared bobbing in the little bay. A seal was trying to catch her dinner. Then she looked at us intently as trying to figure out what we were, the colorful kayaks maybe confused her.



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VIDEO: Magic Island

Lost on the Swedish East coast archipelago there is an place that I named Magic Island.
The early afternoon thunderstorm cleared and the sky was now promising a colorful sunset.
We went for a walk.


view it in full screen, full HD (1080p) if you have broadband Internet connection

Non esitono distanze, ma solo posti diversi in cui ritrovarsi_ Emilio Averga
(There is no such thing as distance apart, just more places where we can meet.)
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Destination: Magic Island

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There is a place on the East Coast of Sweden, in the Baltic Sea, that I named “Magic Island”; I paddled to it on my recent Scandinavian sea kayak trip.
The seas were bumpy, created by the waves rebounding the rocky cliffs hitting the outer islands. I was paddling unprotected waters and the steady breeze from the preceding  days was sending a decent swell in my direction. My paddling companion Petra was a little concerned as her paddling experience was mostly limited to very different waters of land locked Austrian lakes; the last time she paddled salt water was in Pacific Ocean, Australia.
Rounding the South-East point still presented non land-able locations for a camp. The map showed a little cove but I was having a bit of trouble finding it; after all with 30.000 islands in the Stockholm archipelago alone I was now having doubts that I was in the right place… And suddenly there it was, as promised by my little map, a fantastic sheltered bay of polished granite.



The action of the glacier of the last Ice Age some 11.000 years ago managed to shape this very hard granite into smooth rocky waves. The location of this island away from the mainland prevented a lot of vegetation from taking hold and the winter storms have dwarfed and shaped the small trees. The presence of this windy place was palpable; I felt exposed and vulnerable here. The skies turned to dark clouds and storms could be seen approaching.



I climbed up a small rocky outcrop and could see lighting in the distance. The storm would be upon us soon and I made sure I secured our tent with extra guidelines anchored to the cracks in the granite. The wind came followed by a downpour and as we lay in the tent, I was glad that I was picky in selecting just the right tent site as small creeks ran down the smooth rocky slopes. We stayed dry and the tent proved to be solid. But as most summer thunderstorms this one did not last and eventually it passed leaving only a few puffy clouds around. The sun was getting lower and the magic hour was approaching (I borrow this term from my early inspirational photographer Galen Rowel. Galen describes the perfect time of the day to take photographs when the light is warm and the shadows long as magic hour). The rock was still wet but we wanted to see the sunset on the other side of the island, facing West.
We took a walk.





In Sweden, at such high latitudes, the sun sets later in the evening and the twilight lasts so much longer than at home in Australia; I did not have to rush to see the landscape in its best light but I could take my time to wonder around and pose to take it all in. Cold enough to wear a wind braking jacket I could feast with my eyes on the sensual soft shapes of granite waves sculpted by ice. A few birds were still trying to catch dinner before darkness fell and I kept on smiling, happy to be present in this magical place.






Video coming soon
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Kayak swapping

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I know I live in a great part of the world where sea kayaking is really beautiful and easy.
Australia, and especially Queensland is a very desirable destination coveted by paddlers around the globe.
While I receive a lot of comments of how beautiful my part of the world is, I occasionally connect on a deeper level with some paddlers. Johan Wirsen, designer of my Zegul 520, was interested in my paddling style and we came to know of each other. He sounded friendly and considerate and after a few emails I invited him to come and visit me to paddle warm waters while his Baltic sea was gripped by a thick sheet of ice. I have enough kayaks that would fit a range of paddlers and enough gear to outfit a small party. We spoke on the phone and travel was arranged soon after; Johan trusted me to look after him. All I had was one small picture to go by to spot him at the airport pick-up but there was no mistake; somehow I recognized him from the distance. We planned a mini sea kayak camping expedition to the warm waters of the Capricorn coast.



Johan tried kayak sailing for the first time and we exchanged ideas and shared the passion for paddling and kayak design. Johan’s personality suited well; mellow enough to go with the flow but with great skills to feel comfortable in demanding conditions. We have similar goals too: no rush, no racing, no destination fever, just happy to explore and play on the water. The rest is just details.
I was invited to visit him in his native country in the Baltic archipelago. Johan has a shed full of kayaks (he is not sure how many) and lives on the water of the Swedish East Coast.
I have been longing to see Scandinavia again since I first traveled there in my teens but little I knew that the coast is a paddler’s dream. Thousand of islands litter the rather calm sea that has very little tidal influence. Those images of tents pitched at almost water level on polished granite slabs are not staged, one can really do that. 





This year things fell into place and I am currently lost somewhere among those islands. Johan has limited vacation time in summer and only paddled with me for a short week, while I am continuing my sea trip heading North.
At the last Rock&Roll I was lucky to meet Petra, on her extended visit to the land of OZ. A very keen sea kayaker from the land locked Austria, she is my travel companion on this incredible trip although her “training” already started Down Under where she learned to roll in the warm waters of Moreton Bay.

It is wonderful how this little sea fearing vessels that have such ancient roots can bring people together from around the globe. The paddlers that I have met share the same passion for self reliant travel and simple life styles; I am drawn to them through this primeval need to be in contact with nature. I have shared amazing times with people that seek outdoor diversions to the structured life we lead. I have met sea kayakers that are authentic and honest, willing to open their hearts and homes to help and host travelers. It seems that the values of hospitality of the first kayakers of Greenland is now passed on to us.


2nd, 3rd and 4th image courtesy of Erik Sjostedt

I am not sure where I will end my trip but I will know when the time will come to get off the water and catch a bus back to my car.
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Sea trip to the Northern Coast.

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“I have come to accept the feeling of not knowing where I am going. And I have trained myself to love it. Because it is only when we are suspended in mid-air with no landing in sight, that we force our wings to unravel and alas begin our flight. And as we fly, we still may not know where we are going to. But the miracle is in the unfolding of the wings. You may not know where you're going, but you know that so long as you spread your wings, the winds will carry you.” C. JoyBell C.​



There is a need in me that calls me to travel to far away places. When young I travelled a lot with my parents exposing me to new cultures and alternatives lifestyles. Then one day I left my native country and moved to Australia. I love my new country but my soul still searches for familiar landscapes where spruce trees are the forest, not gum trees. I love the cold as it is in my bones as I love skiing and winter camping; it reminds me of the bitter winter mornings waiting for the school bus on snowy roads.
I find pleasure in being rugged up and feeling the cold air on my face.
My upbringing saw me outside a lot and I lived for the forests and mountains behind my house. I feel that evenings become more contemplative when I camp in cold weather; I am not a big fan of sweltering Queensland summer nights.
Give me a down jacket and a decent shelter from wind and I feel at home. After a few years of dreaming to eventually paddle in arctic waters this time the stars aligned and I am off to the land of the long shadows.



I have a vague plan but not distinct destination. I want to spend the days exploring and make decisions as I see them fit my mood. No destination syndrome and no log of my mileage: sea travel at its best with the unknown and surprises my driving force.



all images courtesy of  Eric Sjostedt

I will have limited access to the Internet. Please allow a few days (or weeks) to see you comments appear on this site.

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SAFETY: going solo made safer

On the left shoulder of my PFD I have my personal locator beacon (aka PLB) tightly strapped hoping I never have to use is. It gives me a sense of security that in case the proverbial sh*t really hits the fan somebody might come to my cry for help and pluck me out of the water.
I also know that those electronic gadgets aren't totally foolproof or operate 100% of the time (details here ).
Lately I have found myself venturing on more trips alone; my usual paddling companions seem to have other commitments or maybe have just grown tired of me :-)
While solo trips have a certain appeal they also pose more risks, especially when on the water.
As I prefer more textured waters and longer paddles to more remote places (of a week or so) I have been contemplating undertaking those trips alone.


One concern that has crossed my mind would be the rare scenario where I would come to trouble and be left stranded somewhere with no way of letting people know of my predicament.
I should let my loved ones know where and when I am going but giving them all the details and logistic constraints might prevent that from happening. Printing out maps with detailed plots and ...
I also don't want to "burden" a relative or a friend with the duty of checking on me if I don't contact them on my return, giving them the mental constraint to be my lifeline in case of no-show.
Put it this way: I would rather not be that person that a buddy relies on for safety.
So I was rather pleased when a new registration service was set up for the purpose of "keeping an eye" on theirs subscribers.
iNeverSolo.com a free service that allows you to register you intentions.
"The brainchild of an outdoorsman,
pilot and engineer, iNeversolo is an innovative online resource that lets you create
a plan for your outdoor activity so that, if you don’t make it back when you said you
would, an email and text alert goes out to the people you designate and they can track
you down. iNeverSolo ensures that while you may be on your own outdoors, you are
not really alone." says Peter Downing of iNeverSolo.

The service is free to the users supported by international advertisers and sponsors.
Initially only available in USA, it has just recently added international coverage.
Anybody that signs up to iNeverSolo.com can submit as much (or little) information about the proposed outing, and it doesn't have to be epic. Anything from a simple outing of a few hours in the bay (or woods) to week long expeditions.
You let them know when you will be back and when you will log off and they keep track of you.
I don't mean that they physically check on you (nobody will come around my place if I don't log-off) but they will send out an alert to the contacts I nominated if iNeverSolo fails to get hold of me first and I don't send them a response. So, if I fail to come back from my trip and iNeverSolo can't get in hold of me they will alert my contacts that might notify the authorities to come look for me.
For more details watch this animation or read this info



Of course such service has one downfall: what if I get "stranded" on a remote island (with no mobile service) with a couple of Swedish backpackers and prolong my trip for a few days? I would hate to see that Marine Rescue chopper hovering above looking for me :-)

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Photo: High Sierra

There is a magical place that has a special spot in my heart.
It is not along the seashore or deep in the woods but high in the mountains of the Sierra Nevada of California.



I recently reconnected with that place and realized how much I missed the simple pleasure of journeying through a rocky landscape in good company.
Sheltered from the breeze I slept outside in a hollow on my last night looking at the starry night.
With just my face exposed from the hood of my warm sleeping bag, the cold breeze transported me back to my childhood Alpine valley.
Cuddled next to me, my new found love.


Currently working on a short video on the Sierras.     Coming soon...
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When the journey matters more than the destination

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From Tsunami Rangers site:

"To mosey is not to become oblivious to the reality of kayaking on the exposed open coast, but rather to be deeply present and aware by not always following the map, the plan or the objective. Sharing this way of being on the water is one of the elixirs, the absinthe of the Tsunami tribe but can be part of any sea kayaking journey by anyone, anytime."




That pretty much sums up my view on travelling on the sea (or land, by human power).
There is a marked contrast between the destination being the objective or the journey itself being the focal point. When you want the journey to never end, when rushing does not seem right; when the highlight of the day were those beautiful waves crashing into the rocky point or the encounter with a whale then you know that the journey means more than the destination.
If the little islands with white sandy beaches and the pretty lagoons or the deep sea caves with the surging swell lure you more than the results on your GPS then you might value the journey more than the destination.



My most memorable trips are not the ones that were run under strict schedule or plan but those that just evolved as the days went by. My favorite way of planning trips is where enough research goes into delivering a relatively safe environment but not a rigid schedule or itinerary. I still laugh at the prospect of some paddlers mapping their journey at home on their GPS by "breadcrumbing" the waypoints with such accuracy that a warning beep will tell them that they are off-course, by mere yards.
My ideal plan is where I look at a map and I see a lot of potential along an interesting coastline that might deliver a rugged environment.


Photo: Manolo Pastoriza _used with permission
Since I am not one for large crossings that will see me off the visual security of landmarks, I probably would get bored with endless pushing of the paddle with a compass or GPS as my only stimulation.
I also like the unknown, the discovery. I often feel that there is not enough interesting coast line in my area that would make sea kayak travel mysterious enough. I wish I lived along an unpopulated rocky coast with endless islands to explore where I could spend weeks covering just a short distance.



I envy my Swedish friend's backyard archipelagos although I don't covet his country's climate. Just like my other passions; mountain biking and backpacking, for me the sea kayak journey has to involve fun and play time.
When I was heavily involved in mountain biking, occasionally people would ask me: how many miles did you ride this week end? (knowing I just came back from a mtb safari) “Only 8 this time” was my reply. But little they knew that those 8 miles where very intense. They involved crawling over improbable boulders with friends spotting me to save me in a wipe-out on a radical move. We would spend hours trying to "solve the problem", not unlike in bouldering.



The same reason why now sometimes I am just happy to go rolling my kayak in the sea, covering only a few hundred yards that morning.
For me it has never been about speed  (well, driving 200 Km an hour on the Italian or German Autobahn not counting) or distance. I have never owned a road bike, never participated in a ski race and never took up running. My style is usually slow and bumpy where skills are more important than muscles, where the fun factor always wins.

VIDEO: tropical island paddling

The plan for cruise paddling in calm waters was not going to happen and only the bay where we camped was actually sheltered. Despite the wind, the weather was warm and late afternoon paddles were a delight.


select 720P if you have fast Internet connection

Poking our heads around the corner revealed a much bigger sea than what I usually paddle in and certainly a novelty for my Swedish friend Johan.
It seems that the traditional paddles were not ideal for rockgardening, lacking the raw power a large short bladed Euro style can offer, but it was a godsend in the head wind.
This trip was not structured around a rigid plan where miles had to be paddled to reach our destination; the destination was already reached and only playtime was our schedule.
We took time to smell the roses, or shall I say the seaweed, followed sea eagles soaring and took time to watch the sunset; we were in no rush.

Thanks to Cesare Ferrero for the video editing critique.

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VIDEO: wave dump recovery

The wind subsided but the swell was still there. Myself and Johan Wirsen wanted to have a closer look at waves smashing onto rocks but misjudged the sets.


select 720p if you have fast internet connection
It would have been wise to wear some helmets but we didn't have them with us on this mini-expedition. After this little incident we distanced ourselves from the rocks and went sailing instead (video coming soon)
For full story of the trip click HERE

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VIDEO: Capricornia Coast_part1

The weather gods were smiling on us for the Easter break Capricornia coast extended sea kayak trip.
In the days leading up to the trip the forecast predicted increasing and possible strong winds the following week.
Believing we could handle the forecast conditions and armed with good preparation and knowledge of each others skills we set sail for some exciting kayaking.


if you have fast Internet connection select 720p to view it in HD
The islands were mainly deserted and very few other water crafts were about. In the early days of the trip the swell was not yet large enough to prevent close-up exploration of the rocky coast that is so different than my usual paddling environment.
Being in a small group allowed us to quickly amend plans as the weather changed and we enjoyed the more challenging condition.
If only we could paddle in demanding environment like that more often to further our skills...

Part 2 coming soon
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Sea kayak rental

When travelling abroad to remote locations it's not always possible to transport your favorite kayak with you.
One option is to rent locally, if possible.
However the style of kayak that you might end up is not always what you expect :-)



inspecting a "caballito"


click on images for larger view

*all photos: M. Visocnik_ used with permission