Outfitting a sea kayak

Here is a summary of the outfitting and modifications that I do to my kayaks.
Not all kayaks have the same amount of work done and some outfitting is not shown here.
Some kayaks have more work than this one but those modifications (camera mounts) are not relevant to general paddling.
Most of the work depicted here is only possible on a composite lay-up and I use exclusively West System for my fiberglassing.
I currently don't have any ruddered kayaks in my fleet so there are not details of previous modification done to rudders.
Here is on overview of outfitting of a recently acquired British style kayak.



The numbers are referring to modification or additions that I have permanently attached to the kayak. Other items that are added for a particular outing are not depicted.
Each item that is light-blue has a hot-link pointing to the relevant article in GnarlyDog News.


Bow
1) retractable grab handle, replacing factory looped ones
2) pulley (block) for Flat Earth sail. Attached to deck anchor via Dyneema line
3) short tether line for quick anchor to piers (no article)
4) mast base for Flat Earth sail;  under-deck is reinforced
5) recessed anchor for side stays (sail). Dyneema loops
6) protective tape for mast/boom joiner (possibly scraping deck when sail lowered_no article).
7) 3M Dual-Lock fastener for removable compass (often removed when surfing).
8) pulley (block) for boom of Flat Earth sail. Secured with recess anchor and Dyneema loop


Midship
9) bungee loop for stowing lowered sail
10) cam-cleat for trimming boom
11) slim profile tow-line
12) cleat for up-haul on sail
13) paddle leash (anchor point)
14) magnetic switch for bilge pump
15) replacement DIY fiberglass seat
16) replacement back-band: Immersion Research (no article)
17) electric bilge pump
18) bilge pump outlet, away from the cockpit to prevent water being pumped back in
19) drinking system (below deck)


Stern
20)  protective "deck thread" tape for spare paddle (prevent scuffing)
21)  retractable grab handle
22) clip-on flag for car topping transport (removed before launch_no article)

SHOP: installing a vent plug

The recent quest to solve the leaking hatches problem in one of my kayaks prompted a reader from Estonia to suggest venting the hatches.
As the air inside the hatches contracts and expands with the difference in temperatures from ambient air to water temperature while rolling a kayak, a non vented hatch will try to draw (or expel) air via the hatch cover. I have observed hatch covers bow alarmingly on a hot day and I have heard of damaged kayaks in some extreme cases. I sometimes manually pop the seal of the tight cover and "burp" the air to equalize the pressure that builds inside.
The same would happen when the hot air inside the hatch will suddenly meet cold water and contract: the hatch cover would flex inwards, possibly sucking water inside.
A simple solution is to drill a tiny hole in the bulkhead and let the air pressure exchange through that hole.
The problem with the tiny hole is that often is not large enough to exchange the air pressure swiftly enough.
If I enlarge the hole water would seep into the hatch compartment (even though not much) when the cockpit is flooded, like in a re-enter and roll.
As I tend to take the occasional swim while surfing (oh yeah, my rolls aren't that "bombproof" at times) the flooded cockpit would seep water into the day hatch and front compartment.
Toomas suggested to install Gore-Tex plugs on the bulkheads.
Intrigued by his suggestion I researched the plugs and found that the air permeation is rather high, at least three times that of of some factory drilled bulkhead went holes.
I purchased some plugs and proceeded to installed them.



I selected a location in the rear bulkhead (cockpit) that was a midpoint from hull to deck.



 I used a high speed drill to make a hole in the carbon/Kevlar laminate (small size drill bit) to prevent fraying the Kevlar. I enlarged the hole to a size large enough to insert a round file.



I finished the edges with smooth long strokes of the file to minimize the fraying.



The Gore-Tex vent plug has an "O" ring that seals against the surface. A matching plastic nut was sourced (M12 -1.25 pitch). I used the nut of an electrical gland that fitted perfectly.



I found that the plug seals against water intrusion but allows ample venting of the bulkhead preventing the hatch covers from bowing. Installation was dead easy (20 minutes).
I also found that venting the hatches was only partially the problem; the real one is the dual density hatches expanding in the heat of summer to the point of becoming so loose to literally wobble on the rim.
Needless to say I am now sourcing "old school" hatch covers, made out of rubber, that stay put no matter what temperature.

.

Too much water

My city experienced a disaster that some residents thought could not happen again.
In 1974 the city of Brisbane flooded and a dam was built to prevent a similar disaster to occur again. Unfortunately the dam was designed to hold back water from one particular area, not the whole basin of the Brisbane River. On Wednesday 13JAN2011 the level of the river rose to just about the peak of 1974 bringing disaster to areas close to the banks.




A usually slow flowing river (tidally affected) was suddenly gushing like a mountain torrent.
Brown with silt the strong current was suddenly carrying debris from towns and properties upstream. I have seen an incredible amount of belongings just wiz past me while helping my friends save their home on the banks of the river. Trees, boats, pontoons with boats and barbeques attached, beach balls, kid's toys.
While most of the floating debris ended up in the bay where I often paddle, the silt deposited along the way.
In the following couple of days the water retreated and the mud is now exposed.




Coating everything from a light film to feet deep this sticky greasy mess now stinks.
The waters are contaminated with god knows what and paddling anywhere near this disaster area would be out of question.
The shores of the bay are now filthy with floating refuse. Some larger items have been salvaged by crews before they could reach the bay while others have made ground on surrounding beaches. Some will be lost forever.
As much as the disaster impacts humans, the marine life is impacted more so. A clear line between flood waters and salty one can be seen in Moreton Bay. It might take some time before the local waters are once again clean enough to safely kayak in the Moreton Bay.

REVIEW: Flat Earth Sails_a year later

It has been a year since I first tried Flat Earth Sails from Mick McRobb (review here)
The sail he sent me was a bit short for my kayak deck and the existing mounting location did not lend itself for perfect stowing on deck.
I however mounted that sail on Adventuretess' kayaks since they are shorter than mine.
She immediately liked the new sail.
I kept on using the old one that I designed (inspired by Sea Mongrel's rig).
For some reason Adveturetess seemed to always be that little bit faster than me but I assumed her boat had a better prismatic coefficient than mine...

Recently Mick sponsored me again with a new sail.
This time the sail was a bit bigger and the boom a bit longer.
I can now stow the folded sail neatly on deck (an important detail to me when I have to paddle into the wind in large seas).

After a two week trip where I was able to sail most of the time I have to report that Mick's sails rock, to put it mildly.

select 360p if you don't have fast Internet connection

His sails are superior to the old one I have used for years.
He designs a bit more twist in his high aspect sails.
Suddenly I was able to use a much wider wind "window".
I was surprised to be able to propel my kayak in winds that were just 30 degrees off the bow of my kayak.
Flat Earth Sails catch the wind better and make sailing possible where before I would stow my sail away on deck.
The shorter boom (compared to my old sail) allows full range of paddle strokes without the risk of hitting the end of the boom in a higher stroke style.



I just need to stretch myself a bit more when stowing the sail on deck while securing it with bungee and olive cleat.
As usual, Mick's work is really good.
His use of high tech/low stretch fabric for the perimeter of the sail makes the shape billow and be more efficient.
His slightly flexible boom (fibreglass sailing batten) is more forgiving in high wind gusts spilling a bit of force and preventing capsize.
I confidently sailed in beam seas where waves were washing over the deck.
I could run with the wind (wind from behind) and surf on quartering stern breezes.
On the new sail the connection of boom/mast is improved.
Mick now uses a full sleeve where the batten is inserted and then bolted to the pivoting mast fitting.
I find however that the top of the sail fabric (mast pocket) is a bit on the light side and abrasion could wear a hole prematurely. I reinforced the area with self adhesive sailing cloth (used for making numbers on sail).


old sail (left) and new one (on right)

While Mick has stock of a few different sizes of sails, he is happy to create a custom size or color for you.

Surfing with a stick_part 2

While the "Mexicans" (South of the Queensland border) paddlers have to contend with much colder waters right now, we "banana-benders" are graced with sunshine and ocean temps that don't require much more than a Reed top.
Some locals however still regard the conditions too "extreme" and most popular surfing spots are much less crowded than in summer.
That leaves me so much more room to enjoy sea kayak surfing:

Adventuretess in Sialuk (Nordkapp LV)



Smiles all around.
Ah, I forgot, they were right: those "sticks" are not good for much else than kindling :-)

GEAR: Reed spraydecks and clothing

Aquatherm is a unique fabric used by Reed Chillcheater to make kayak spraydecks and clothing.
Like no other fabric on the market it addresses a couple of very important features.
The fabric is firstly waterproof but also breathable.
Many fabrics have achieved that (Gore-Tex for example) but what sets Aquatherm apart from the other fabrics is its elasticity.
Almost as stretchy as Lycra the fabric is coated with a unique rubber-like membrane that makes it waterproof and windproof.
What ultimately distinguishes it is the ability to dry very fast compared to other fabrics.
Since the outside of the fabric is smooth (no knit) the rubber sheds water like nothing else.
The face fabric does not saturate with water that would take a long time to dry.
After a few minutes my Aquatherm gear is touch dry.
So what's the big deal of keeping the fabric dry; isn't it enough that water does not get to your body?
You might have noticed how a wet garment chills you when saturated with water if the air is chilly and there is a bit of wind.
Think of a wet T-shirt in a bit of a breeze...
The evaporative action (fabric drying) uses an incredible amount of energy (heat) and that translates to heat loss and therefore the cooling effect.
Just like a "swamp cooler" works on that principle to cool the air, the wet fabric is cooling your body.
Sounds desirable in the heat of summer, but it can prove to be a real bummer (often more than that) when temperatures are in the low teens (centigrade).

With winter approaching, fellow novice paddlers are seeking recommendations on suitable paddling attire.
While I also own a Gore-Tex paddling jacket I always reach for the Reed gear.
Aquatherm tops are excellent for rolling too since they are so much less bulky than a jacket.
Even though they don't keep me dry when rolling (water still goes down my neck) they are excellent for cruise paddling.
In a jacket (unless it's a "dry" top) the sleeves fill up with water and rarely drain..

Being breathable they keep the "steam" that I exert from my body away from my skin keeping my underlayer (when cold) dry.
I find Aquatherm suited for mild weather (read Queensland winter); if necessary I layer with a thin fleece underneath.

Reed also makes spray decks.

If Aquatherm is excellent to keep me warm as a garment, it excels to keep me cool when used in a spray skirt.
How can that be?

As mentioned, the fabric "breathes" and prevents the steam to build under the enclosed deck.
Since I have been using Reed spray decks I have been much more comfortable when paddling in the heat of summer (30C-86F). I no longer feel the little rivulets of sweat drip along my legs...
I am not sure how warm the skirt would be in really cold waters (Qld ocean temps rarely drop below 20C) but its perfectly suited for my paddling conditions.

Now the bad part; there always is one :-)
User reviews say that Aquatherm skirts are not as durable as good quality neoprene skirts.
Despite the manufacturer claiming that they are 5 times more abrasion resistant than neo, I have not found that.
The fabric is rather thin and its fairly easy to puncture when assisting rescues and sliding the rescued kayak over the cockpit rim. I am not the only one lamenting this problem.
Furthermore, a couple of skirts have delaminated prematurely.

While Reed does offer a 12 month warranty against manufacturing defects, it is the fabric in some skirts that failed, in some cases before warranty ran out.
Reed is happy to replace them only within the specified warranty period.
I was hoping that my skirts would last longer than 12 months and that I should not need to replace them soon after.
Interestingly enough only some skirts are effected by this.
Could it be that there was a bad batch of fabric and that the local retailer got the bulk of those defective skirts?
Will I replace the Reed skirts with the same one?
Yes. I will give Aquatherm another go and hopefully my problem was isolated.
The fabric is just too good to go back to neoprene.

Soft spot for pooches...

I have a soft spot for dogs.
They truly are "man's best friend".
I used to have an adventure companion when I lived in USA: an Australian Sheppard (think Border Collie).
She would come on most mountain bike rides, or at least on the ones that were not in the blazing sun in the middle of summer, keeping up to any single track speed

She would come backpacking with me in the High Sierra (we overnighted on a peak of 13.000ft once) and on skiing trips.


Foof backpacking in the High Sierra
Once I moved back to Australia I realized that if I had to have a dog here life would be much tougher, for the dog I mean.
Most recreational areas in Australia are designated National Park where domestic animals are not permitted.
A dog in Australia has a much more restricted life.
In my neighbourhood I would be able to exercise a dog off-leash only in designated pathetically confined fenced up "dog parks".
A far cry from the open environments my dog enjoyed in USA.
Occasionally when I go mountain biking, I see well trained dogs run around off-leash in the forest but I am sure that "technically" they would have to be on the lead.
Authorities seem to be much more aggressive here too and it would be probably just a matter of time before I would get a fine if my dog would follow me on my rides.
So, I was very pleased to see a nice boxer accompany his owner on a Sunday paddle.

Funny thing is that the dog was so mellow about the outing that he nodded off, fell asleep, lost his balance and ended up in the drink :-)
After that rude awakening the pooch remained nice and alert for the rest of the trip.

PS any pooch deserves to be loved and cared for. If you really want to keep your dog safe consider the Safety Collar from Tazlab: the only collar that will prevent accidental strangulation...

SAFETY: surviving a summer storm.

As a leader (among peers) of sea kayak trips I have often pondered at scenarios that I might be involved in while paddling in a group.
I usually paddle with sea kayakers that have a minimum standard of proficiency (self rescue in mild conditions) and rarely with novices.

Some stretches of water involve crossings of semi protected waters (no ocean swell) of 15-20 Km.
Living in a subtropical locale the possibility of sudden storms, occasionally violent, unexpected and usually brief is feasible.
While the weather forecast is religiously checked and observed before leaving shore, on multi day trips sometimes the only forecast available is via VHF radio bulletins on the morning schedule.
I have been caught out before on sudden changes of weather but luckily close enough to shore to make a hasty easy retreat.

hand towing kayaks to camp in 30+ knots wind
To better my skills and be able to handle unexpected though scenarios I sometimes seek conditions where I never see any other user on the water, let alone a kayaker.
Obviously in those conditions I chose an on-shore wind location where in case of trouble I can be blown back to safety in a short time.

training with Greg Schwarz in 30 knots wind
In the unlikely but possible event that I should be caught out on the water in a group of 6-8 paddlers (too far from shore to be reached in time) what would be my best way to ride out a short storm (1 hour duration, for example) ?
I have asked this question on a couple of Forums and I got replies of limited value and some abusive ones too ("you should have checked the forecast", "paddle close to shore", "don't go out in bad weather" or "if you are that stupid to be out there in a storm is serves you right").
A local instructor replied to me:

click on image to enlarge
While stating the obvious, I really did not learn much from his comment.
Relying purely on the weather bureau's forecast is very shortsighted.
I believe that knowledge, skills and being prepared for the situation is my best defense.

windy conditions (1)
So I asked the question directly to highly regarded sea kayakers Nigel Dennis (of SKUK) Eric Soares (from the Tsunami Rangers) and Nigel Foster (of Nigel Foster kayaks):
"Since I believe that you have had a fair share of bad weather experience on the water, what is, in your opinion, the best way to ride out such event when paddling in a group of medium skilled paddlers?
Winds would not exceed 40 knots and waves would be of max 1.5 meter with probably braking tops.
I believe that rafting up would be hard and holding together dangerous? clipping the perimeter lines of the kayaks together to raft and leave the hands off the edge of the kayak?
I am open to suggestions"
Thankfully their replies were outstanding first hand knowledge of possible solutions for my sticky scenario.
Nigel Dennis replied:
-----
Hi Damiano,

Thanks for the e-mail. I am not sure there is a one answer. If it was me and I was caught out in strong winds with a group the best thing would be to run down wind. As the wind gets stronger this will become more and more your only option. The problem is that people will be at different levels. It will be very hard to keep the group together. Someone will need to lead from the front so they have a little control over the direction and speed of the group. Another will have to stay at the rear and be in charge of rescues. As the wind picks up you will have problem with people falling in. You can't afford for this to happen. Your only option left is to raft up. I would advise two small rafts rather than one big one but only if you have sufficient competent leaders to go in each group. Finally it would help if you used a small drogue on each raft or clipped helmets on tow lines to each raft. This will be difficult but it’s the only thing you can do. I have had to do this in the past.

Nigel
-----

sea kayaks in wind waves (2)
Eric, more specific to different levels of storm gravity and participants skill level, said:
-----
Greetings Damiano,
Here is my reply to your scenario.

1. Of course, all your friends are right who say "You shouldn't be there." Right. But as you said, you can't always forecast sudden squalls that only last an hour or so.

2. I do not recommend rafting up unless someone is very ill. The reason is as you said. Even in somewhat brisk conditions such as you describe, boats that are rafted bang together, which can hurt boaters and damage boats. It's especially risky to tie boats together, as they may get entangled, which can cause all sorts of problems, as you can imagine.

3. Form a diamond formation of four boats. If there are more than four boats, form more diamonds or parts of diamonds. A diamond formation has one boat in front, leading, another boat in the back, sweeping, and one boat on each side. Each keeps a safe distance from each other, about ten meters or so, so they don't bang into each other, but the paddlers can communicate and watch out for each other. Also, for your weaker paddlers, the formation provides a psychological structure so they feel safer and protected in a "pod". If there are say, two diamond formations, have one follow the other with the lead of the second diamond maintaining a distance of about ten meters or so behind the sweep of the first diamond.

4. From the diamond formation, (assuming the wind is 30-40 knots, w/seas below 2 meters in a semi-protected environment), FACE the wind directly and have everyone put their heads as low and forward (to reduce windage) as possible, so they are looking up to see forward. Arms (elbows especially) should be close into the body to reduce windage. This will give you a low physical profile so you are less effected by gusts and the strong prevailing wind. The leader should paddle just hard enough to make nominal forward movement, so slower paddlers can keep up. Do this for an hour until the squall passes, then resume your course. Facing the wind like this provides the most stable feel for inexperienced paddlers.

5. A formation variant: Should you have one or two truly weak paddlers, make a column formation, either by itself, or within the diamond. A column formation is a straight line. The weak paddlers draft on the strong lead paddler, so their workload is reduced.

7. Another solution: Should you have all strong paddlers, just continue on course with the wind at your flank in a diamond formation and ignore the beam seas, while doing correction strokes as needed. Or, turn with the wind, fan out (row formation), so you don't run into each other, and run with the wind for the storm's duration, then turn back toward your destination, assuming it's to the side and not behind you! These two solutions are preferred, if your paddlers are strong and bold. This is what we do!

8. If someone is unable to stay up for any reason, have a diamond of four or five paddlers raft up, all facing the same direction (ideally, into the wind and swells). Put the weakest paddlers in the middle and the two best on the outside. Hold the boats together tightly by placing paddles on your laps, with the blades extended to the boater next to you, so he can grab your paddle. Everyone holds onto the paddles, and that keeps the boats (roughly) in place, with everyone pressing toward the center.

9. These solutions to this scenario should be rehearsed, first in mild conditions, then in rough conditions--but near shore!

Happy paddling!
Eric
-----

Vanilla practising in 30 knots wind (according to BOM records)

Nigel Foster addresses the training for the unexpected.
Only by being prepared and having trained in harsher conditions will give me the chance to survive a possible storm.
>>
Hi Damiano,Thanks for your patience. Recovered thanks and back on the water... and last weekend running kayak incident management courses.
Re your questions; If I could start with the concept; "fail to prepare; prepare to fail" and suggest that for the individual paddler who faces a real possibility of encountering certain conditions on open water, then the best advice is preparation. If you want to know what it's like to control your kayak in strong winds, then practice in strong winds in a safe place (such as just a short distance from shore when the wind will quickly blow you to shore if you get out of control)
If you can paddle circles or figure-of-eights in the wind, can edge and brace for balance against a side wind and make forward progress in all directions... then you are in a better position to meet similar conditions unexpectedly while on a trip or on a crossing. It's neither safe nor as much fun for the individual or the leader to play Russian Roulette on open water, knowing that there's a good chance of meeting conditions that group members have never experienced even closer to shore. But... it's really fun to learn techniques in a safe place in wild conditions that get close to or exceed your experience and current ability, especially if you're doing it with paddlers who know what to do and can offer help and advice. It makes you a better paddler.

Ideally each paddler should be confident and able to rescue others, and to perform self-rescues in conditions they might expect on any trip they choose to go on. Ideally that means practicing in similar conditions in a safer place before signing on for an open water trip where those conditions are a possibility.
What do paddlers generally find easiest? Heading straight into the wind until it reaches a certain strength... ( beyond that wind strength the kayak will prefer to be sideways to the wind.) So in the first instance, paddling against the wind through a squall will offer more ease of control for individuals, and therefore more safety so long as they can keep together as a group.
So a good practice session might include heading out from a safe shore against the wind to a nearby anchored float and paddling steadily to remain as close as possible to the float for the duration of a violent squall. Try it with a small group and try it with a larger group. If anyone gets tired, they'll be blown onto the safe beach behind.

Another useful practice session in similar conditions is to paddle a figure-of-eight path around two anchored floats. (Anchored floats can be as simple as a plastic bottle on a line anchored with a brick.) It gives practice in turning in every direction to the wind and shows how effectively you can control the kayak in that strength of wind. The more practice, usually the quicker and more effectively you can do it without getting blown onto the beach.

Other skills that are useful? Techniques for balancing while looking behind at fixed objects or other paddlers, the ability to slow down your paddling pace to match someone else's pace, the ability to turn your kayak around and position yourself to rescue someone in the conditions... and practicing anchored rescues in those conditions, which require positioning skill, tow-line skills and rescue skills... and awareness of what happens if you let go of your kayak... again practice in a safe place first.

Finally, in wind, communication gets more difficult. Practice using eye contact and head gestures rather than shouting, and keeping close as a group. Then... the squalls on open water become a treat rather than a potential hazard, and if someone capsizes, your role becomes one of making use of the situation as a useful practice session for everyone, rather than it falling on you to perform the rescue. Hope these comments help! Get back to me if you need to, and have fun out there!

nigel

There you have it.
I very much value their advice that will help me to become a more prepared leader with wiser knowledge.
Please feel free to comment on their advice and if you have anything to add, my readers would love to hear from you.

PS AUG10: a very informative discussion thread on QajaqUSA forum here.

1,2 published under Creative Commons license

Cartopping sea kayaks

In my previous post I mentioned tie downs anchor points for sea kayaks when car top transporting them.
Here I would like to talk about my experience with cradles for kayaks.
I soon learned that kayaks can not be transported by just "chucking" them on top of a car and tie them down.
I was wise enough to never do the mistake of just using bungee/ocky straps for securing them (don't laugh, people really use that) and, in the rear vision mirror, see my prized possession tumble down the freeway .
I used proper straps to secure the boat onto the crossbars.
The previous owner of my first kayak told me that she never bothered with those "fancy" cradles that some people use, "the kayak will be fine".
And it was, for about a month.
Then one day I noticed a nice crack just where the kayak met the roof rack.
I must have been a bit heavy handed when securing it, worried it might fall off the roof.
That incident prompted me to learn how to repair glass boats and that after all they have to be handled with care.
While a decent sea kayak can take the force of the surf, a concentrated load in one spot (like a steel bar of a roof rack) can crack the hull.
Plastic kayaks suffer a different type of damage: deformation and oil canning.
I have now tried 3 types of cradles for my kayaks and not all have been successful.
There are several manufacturers of cradles but not all are equal.

Thule Hullavator: a little bit bulky for my style
My preferred one is where the cradle swivels and contours to the shape of the kayak. Some cradles are contoured but rigidly shaped; they might fit just one hull shape but not all. Stress raiser might appear on hulls that are transported on cradles that don't "hug" the kayak evenly.

high-tech layup deforming in tropical heat
Living in a subtropical place my summers get pretty hot.
High tech composite boats often have layups of Kevlar where epoxy is used as laminating resin.
Epoxy's melting point is lower than polyester and in full sun it can become a bit soft.
In one instance I had one very high tech kayak dimple and show stress marks despite transporting it on recommended "J" cradles.

Thule "J" cradles
My best solution for that kayak was to transport it belly up on custom made closed cell foam cradles cut to the exact shape of the deck.

DIY closed cell foam cradles

Since the deck was made of vinylester resin it was more heat resistant.

If your vehicle does not allow for conventional roof racks a foam block can be your only solution, in some cases.

used with permission from British V8 (link here)

My current kayaks don't suffer from heat distortion and I can use standard cradles with hull side down.

Mockpool (SeaBird Designs Northsea) and Sialuk (VCP Nodkapp LV)

A while ago I came across the cradles below.

I am unsure if they would be suitable for kayaks that have light hulls or a plastic one.These pads seems a bit on the small side however they do swivel.

The owner used them to transport a hard chined kayak where the ridge would be strong enough to support his kayak.

Transporting kayaks in the summer heat poses problems.

Before you permanently damage your prized possession on a long hot drive test the hull of your kayak and make sure your cradles offer enough support.

SAFETY: group size on the water

I am a social sea kayaker. I enjoy the company of other paddlers.
Paddling in groups has a great social aspect and the benefit of the safety to be paddling with others.
Paddling in a pod usually means that you have the support from your mates if something should happen on the water.
While in some other outdoor activities the help factor is not as critical, in sea kayaking, a quick response from members of your pod is much more drastic.
It really does not take that long that, if in serious trouble, you could drown.
By serious I don’t mean anything catastrophic; it can be as simple as just fainting.
The water is not forgiving and drowning even in rather mild conditions is always a possibility.
With this in mind I wanted to minimize my risks and paddle with others.
I wanted to paddle in the safety of a knowledgeable and skilled group that would offer me that support if something had to happen to me.
I joined a Club and undertook several instruction courses to achieve the standard of being able to rescue myself and others.

The Club follows set guidelines to ensure that all paddlers are safe on the water.
One of the areas that is recognized as potential danger factor is group size.
A historical incident with NSWSKC where a group of about 50 paddlers run into serious trouble and had to be rescued by authorities lead to the recognition of maximum group size that should paddle together.

The highly esteemed sea kayaker Laurie Ford says:

".... 10 or 12 should be an absolute maximum number of paddlers on any one trip (see my Philosophy on canoeing). It is absolutely impossible to keep an eye on more than that. The leader should be constantly looking round every few minutes and counting them all, so that at any one minute he/she knows exactly where everyone is. And with that number of paddlers, you can tell when some of them may be starting to get tired, or seasick etc. ..." *1

Some Clubs are however still promoting much larger pods of paddlers (I have seen some as large as 20).

16DEC2007
Joining and leaving the group at different stages of the outing is also apparently OK.
As Laurie Ford suggests, I ask myself: how can a leader keep an eye on such large number of participants?
And if the paddlers are then leaving and joining at different stages, who is there to know if somebody has actually been left behind?

A few years ago Laurie Ford observed :

"...Over the past few years there have been numerous articles in their (ed. NSWSKC ) magazine, from paddlers who felt they were left behind on trips - and generally given a hard time. The same magazine always had an answering letter from the ‘leader’ concerned, basically telling the novice that if they can’t keep up they shouldn’t be out there spoiling the leaders enjoyment..." *1

I observed the same on a recent outing.
One of the older paddlers was left behind.
When he later on arrived on the beach he said that the pod left him behind and did not wait for him.
I was concerned. If for some reason he would have capsized, most likely he would have not be able to self rescue (I know the guy and I have never seen him be able to get back in the kayak without great assistance).

While some informal paddling groups advocate for self reliance and involve paddlers that take the responsibility to look after themselves, a Club usually also caters for paddlers that need assistance.
The Club outings of low skill level/grading are aimed for beginners/non skilled paddlers.
Is it not the imperative responsibility of the Leader of that pod to have a watchful eye on all participants and make sure that at no time they should be left at their own devices?
An experienced Club Leader once said: " Everything is OK until it goes wrong "
Lets hope that his prediction never happens.

I now wonder what is the view of other paddlers and instructors on group size.

*1 http://www.laurieford.net/sadnsw.htm FEB01


PS 09FEB10


6 NSWSKC separate pods congregate at a common destination
At Umina's Rock&Roll 2009 it was interesting to see that despite large number of paddlers participating in on-water activities, strict pod numbers were always observed.
If the pod was too large to paddle safely it was divided in two and two certified leaders appointed.
The briefing was separate and independent form each other, the route taken was independent and separate, the only thing common was the destination.
Pod group ratio was observed at all times as per Australian Canoeing guidelines.

TRIP: when it rains it pours

Just some fun pictures of paddling in a squall.
Full trip report by Adveturetess: here




30 knots headwind, great conditions for traditional paddles which are not affected by wind

Technique: low deck rolling

Finally I am moving forward with my technique.
I am not sure why my kayaking skills learning is rather slow: is it that "you can't teach an old dog new tricks" or is it that my coordination is not that great (I still laugh at myself when I tried to dance, once :-).
Recently I have progressed from my basic sweep roll to a Greenland roll.
While I get the idea of that roll, I would not exactly call it performed flawlessly.
I watch Greg Schwarz dance in his Nordkapp LV; such grace.
I also know that Greg does a fair bit of yoga, something that I stay away from.
He is much more "bendy" that I am and it shows in his balanced brace.
While Adventuretess does not do much yoga she still rolls much nicer than me, any day.
Am I destined to be a klutz roller for the rest of my paddling life?
Maybe, but there could be a reason that Greg and Adventuretess can pull off some rolls with such finesse.

Greg performing an "elbow crook roll"
I can not lay on the back of my kayaks!
Since my legs are rather chunky I tend to fit production kayaks with higher decks.
Higher in the front for my legs and feet usually translates higher in the back.
Greg and Adventuretess mainly paddle lower rear deck kayaks: a Nordkapp LV.
While Adventuretess has so far rolled any kayak that she has sat in (including some real barges out there) she definitely prefers rolling her low volume Nordkapp.
I have recently removed the factory seat from her kayak and replaced it with a custom made one.
Yesterday, I tried her kayak again: I now can almost fit in it.
My legs can jam under the thigh braces very snugly.
While I would not want that fit for hours on end I thought I would try some rolls in her kayak.
Hello Dubside!
What a difference! No longer am I hitting my back square in the middle while trying to lay lower on the deck ( I still can't get out of the seat and totally lay low on the deck though).
My rolls were easy. Compared to my NorthSea, the Nordkapp LV just seems to roll by itself.
So while I was at it I wanted to try the elusive butterfly roll.
And after a few tries I understood the paddle position needed for that roll and pulled off a couple of decent ones (I know: more grunt than style, but hey, gotta start somewhere :-).

I am now looking for a low rear deck kayak.
I was hoping to fit in the Tahe Marine T but the importer assures me that it is smalled than other kayaks that I don't fit.
Would a custom skin on frame be my only solution?

Destination: Fraser Island, Qld

While Australia celebrated it's National Day on 26JAN, I took the opportunity to make it a 4 day vacation and paddle in a locale that I can't reach during an ordinary weekend.
Some paddlers prefer the busy waters of Moreton Bay but I cherish a trip where a sense of adventure can be had and very few people are encountered.
Fraser Island's West coast offers that sense of solitude.
Most people visit the busy East coast of the island where 4WDs are as thick as a traffic jam on the I-405 in Los Angeles (well not really, but you get my drift) leaving the West coast very quiet.
Camping happens right on the beach and the sunset views are unspoiled.

I know I am killing my Northern hemisphere readers right now with the view of balmy conditions and warm water.
If it's any consolation to you, I will let you know that the bugs were really ferocious at one campsite :-)

sailing crystal waters
Report to follow on Adventuretess' blog: Funtessea

Technique: sail roll

On some of my sea kayaking trips I like to use a small sail.
I have designed my own rig and a few of my friends are now using the same set up.
Details on DIY sail can be found here.
While sailing can be great fun and can add a few more miles to your daily paddling distance (that's if the wind gods are benign to you and won't give you head wind) it can also be more challenging than just paddling.
The kayak can become more tippy in higher winds with increased wave heights.
Occasionally a kayak sailor will find him/herself in a gust of wind that just were not ready for and capsize.

Some sail rigs are rather cumbersome and don't stow away easily.
Those rigs will be more difficult to handle in case of a capsize.
The design I use has a single main sheet (one rope that goes to the boom) that with a simple flick of the fingers will depower the sail and possibly allow you to roll your kayak.
I have been lucky enough not to capsize yet in windy conditions and I am unsure if I will be able to roll back up in the heat of the battle.
On a recent trip I wanted to see if my friend Vanilla could actually pull off a "sail roll".
Conditions were not really windy but that allowed me to be next to him and document the roll.

To be able to successfully roll with the sail Vanilla let the sail out so the boom was loose.
In case of an accidental capsize that would be the first thing needed to be done or the sail would hold water and prevent rolling back up.
During rolling, the extended paddle generated more lift, especially the Aleut paddle.
An alternative roll with the sail would be to release the uphaul (rope that holds the mast up) and have the mast loose.
Once back upright the sail would be deployed (uphauled) in the usual fashion again.
I have observed several rigs on local kayaks that used my dimensions for the sail but rigged the sail with some mistakes in the set up.
Those sails can only be used in light winds where realistically the chance of capsizing is substantially diminished.
If rolling your kayak is not a skill that you already have, be prepared to have a swim or two if you use your sail in decent winds.
Make sure you know how to rescue yourself too or the swim back to shore could be a very long one.

Size matters

I have the feeling that some individuals are obsessed with size.
Some must think that bigger is better.

I keep on coming across people that appear to have a fascination for acquiring items that seem just too big for them.
Are the large items compensating for their own physical size insecurity?
I have seen it in all aspects of life: young men with clothing that are too big for them (usually on guys that would prefer to be more bulky), riders straddling motorcycle where they can barely touch the ground, outdoor enthusiast that carry a backpack so big that hinders their progress on the trail...

Not forgetting the all-obvious obsession with large vehicle.
If you look at what is driven around in the urban environment one would think that the western world has very little paved roads (particularly around schools at kid’s pick up time :-).
It would appear that most of us live in very rural areas and need very large vehicles to get to work or do grocery shopping.
On the other hand, interestingly enough, I have observed (in Australia and USA) that majority of real active people usually drive compact cars.
Is the large 4WD the domain of the wannabe?
There are obviously legit users of said large vehicles where a smaller one just would not work for their business (i.e. construction).
Is there a trend to compensate with the large for the lack of confidence, or in some cases, for guys, the perceived lack of “manhood”?

somebody not confident about their manhood?
Funny enough the trend seems to extend to sea kayaking as well.
I have been noticing that some are buying sea kayaks that are just simply too large for them.
I can understand the inexperienced novice where his/her priority is usually a “stable” kayak (often by default large) but it seems that some paddlers are trading for larger kayaks that don’t really fit them.
I know of several paddlers that have upgraded from a seemingly OK kayak to monsters 6.1 meters long (21ft) barges.
These kayaks are designed for extended unsupported expeditions and perform poorly in the hands of a paddler that has not got the skills or the strength to maneuver it in a bit of wind.

kayak too big for this paddler needing towing in 15 knot of wind
And just because you are a couple it does not mean that you have to have matching kayaks; surely there is a difference in size and weight between the two of you :-)
So why are there a disproportionate number of barges around used primarily for day paddles or a brief overnighter?
But there is no need to go to that extreme to find yourself in a kayak that is just too big.
If one wants to improve skills and be able to really feel connected to a kayak a smaller size is usually better.
I have witnessed a remarkable advancement of skills after a paddler has switched to a kayak that would fit her properly.
Very evident areas are the ability to edge the boat, quick turns, improved paddle stroke (due to lower cockpit rim and width of kayak) and rolling.
While some seem to justify that a kayak must be large enough to carry supplies and equipment for several weeks majority of us very rarely (if ever) venture on trips of more than a few days. In my part of the world that’s in tropical conditions where very little protective clothing is needed therefore requiring even less cargo space.
Serious major expeditions are usually carried out in medium size kayaks (SKUK Explorer being the most popular one). If remote locations can be reached in those kayaks surely a few days in balmy conditions could be too.
While some manufacturers are rather vague with payloads, Valley's website is informative enough to offer a weight guideline for optimal performance.
So, despite that info, some paddlers still choose boats that are way too big for them.

No amount of padding experience will make an oversize kayak fit well. Wind and waves will make that craft bob around the sea like a cork.
An Aquanaut HV, for example, to perform optimally will have to have a paddler and cargo of 250 lbs (113 Kg)! Such kayak with a lighter paddler will perform poorly compared to one sized to match the paddler.

A kayak that is designed to carry large loads will have too much freeboard (when unloaded) that will act like a sail in anything but calm conditions.
A kayak that does not sit deep enough in the water will feel often a bit tender. Needless to say also that a kayak that is too long will be a handful to turn around, especially in wind.
I could carry on with the disadvantages of a large kayak (long/large ones need more effort to be paddled at Club outings pace, heavier, occupy more room in storage, harder to lift/transport etc.)

A well fitted kayak promotes maneuverability. Unfortunately padding out a cockpit of a too large kayak is often just a marginal improvement but certainly not the solution.
A too high coaming of the cockpit will always remain too high on a paddler that is clearly too small for that given craft.
With the range of kayaks available today to fit most body types there is no longer the need to make do with a boat that does hinder your skills.
Way too often the concept of “the longer waterline equals to a faster kayak” is misconceived if the paddler has not got the strength and technique to actually paddle a longer craft.
Most smaller paddlers will be better served by a kayak that despite being a bit shorter will actually give less resistance to be paddled at Club pace speed.
So very few paddlers rarely reach and maintain the higher “hull speed” of a long kayak.
Paddled at slower speeds the longer kayak is actually harder to paddle.
Honestly, a lot of folk out there on the water would be better off with a kayak that fitted them.

11FEB10: Expedition Kayaks' blog post on "downsizing" is interesting (no direct link available)