Petra sail-surfing with Northern Light paddle and SeaDog sail.
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Showing posts with label bracing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bracing. Show all posts
12 January 2015
Photo: sail-surfing the New Year
Conditions were just right: a running out tide met by an opposing 15 knots of wind created waves steep enough to be caught by a small sail.
Petra sail-surfing with Northern Light paddle and SeaDog sail.
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Petra sail-surfing with Northern Light paddle and SeaDog sail.
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11 November 2014
Video: Radikal Kayak Surfing
I love this video.
Beside the incredibly smooth kayak surfing demonstrating outstanding skills using an unconventional paddle, the footage capture and the editing is really captivating.
It inspires me to get out more in the rough stuff and play.
My aspirations: to be one day half as good as Marc.
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Beside the incredibly smooth kayak surfing demonstrating outstanding skills using an unconventional paddle, the footage capture and the editing is really captivating.
It inspires me to get out more in the rough stuff and play.
My aspirations: to be one day half as good as Marc.
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24 January 2013
VIDEO: Bumping around in waves
I found myself getting tossed around more than usual in those short dumpy waves.
It has been a while since I paddled Green-Piece, the quirky little lime green Currituck from Impex.
Yes, it felt little compared to my other kayaks and with my hefty weight it does not suit me as multi-day tripping boat (I think I am at the load capacity limit). I find that boat quite nimble and I seem to be able to turn it faster than other hard tracking kayaks.
I wanted to take it surfing and find out what it can do for me.
select HD for a superior viewing experience
I noticed the bow getting pushed under the surface faster than my other larger kayaks and occasionally it would pitch and broach; I think a lighter person will find it more forgiving.
Reverse surfing made me spin quicker than in my Zegul and I had find again the balance point before it would tip over.
It was refreshing to be paddling a kayak that I have neglected for a while thinking that it just was not suited for me.
It gets to show what a difference a few years make and with new skills what fun I can have in a kayak that I find boring otherwise when flat water paddling.
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27 November 2012
VIDEO: too windy
I believe in pushing myself in environments that are often outside my comfort level.
It is in conditions that test my skills and endurance that I gain a better understanding of my potential and abilities. I encourage others to do so too because I see it as the only thing that really improves a person's confidence, fast.
Lately I have been spending more and more time paddling in windy conditions because I feel that I greatly need to gain more skills in developed seas.
I used to dread a windy forecast; anything above 15 knots would make me reconsider my paddling plans. Now I look for winds that will oppose a tidal flow hoping for some waves that will mimic a tidal race. Bumpy is good.
Saturday's forecast was mild (up to 15 knots) but Sunday was shaping to have 25-35 knots wind against an ebbing tidal flow. I have paddled a few times there before and I knew that with onshore winds waves will form.
What I didn't know is that too much wind doesn't make for better fun.
I reefed my Code Zero Flat Earth sail to reduce it's surface knowing that a full square meter was going to be too much for me to handle.
Soon after I launched I was again glad to be paddling with a Greenland paddle remembering how much more wind effected my Euro paddles used to be in a stiff breeze.
My progress was a bit erratic and the strong wind kept on pushing my bow downwind. The British kayak I was paddling has proven a handful before I relocated the seat forward (to balance its trim for beam winds); this time her handling was really lousy. I wished I would have weighted the bow with ballast to release the stern a bit as I could barely turn my kayak around and paddle back out into the waves for another run.
Getting the kayak back from the shore across the sandblasting beach with me leaning at a great angle into the wind, was another story.
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It is in conditions that test my skills and endurance that I gain a better understanding of my potential and abilities. I encourage others to do so too because I see it as the only thing that really improves a person's confidence, fast.
Lately I have been spending more and more time paddling in windy conditions because I feel that I greatly need to gain more skills in developed seas.
I used to dread a windy forecast; anything above 15 knots would make me reconsider my paddling plans. Now I look for winds that will oppose a tidal flow hoping for some waves that will mimic a tidal race. Bumpy is good.
Saturday's forecast was mild (up to 15 knots) but Sunday was shaping to have 25-35 knots wind against an ebbing tidal flow. I have paddled a few times there before and I knew that with onshore winds waves will form.
What I didn't know is that too much wind doesn't make for better fun.
I reefed my Code Zero Flat Earth sail to reduce it's surface knowing that a full square meter was going to be too much for me to handle.
Soon after I launched I was again glad to be paddling with a Greenland paddle remembering how much more wind effected my Euro paddles used to be in a stiff breeze.
My progress was a bit erratic and the strong wind kept on pushing my bow downwind. The British kayak I was paddling has proven a handful before I relocated the seat forward (to balance its trim for beam winds); this time her handling was really lousy. I wished I would have weighted the bow with ballast to release the stern a bit as I could barely turn my kayak around and paddle back out into the waves for another run.
I will take a weathercocking kayak over a "neutral" one any day. In a weathercocking one I can drop a bit of skeg; in a so called neutral, when the wind really blows, it suddenly becomes lee cocking, something I definitely DO NOT want.
My attempt at sailing was dismal: even with only half sail I could not get my kayak going and I quickly capsized. It was then that all the futzing with sculling training in clam conditions came handy as I managed to roll back up without having to wet exit in a rather tricky scenario. I packed the sail back on the deck and continued to just surf the messy waves.
After a few hours of battling with the wind I called it a day.Getting the kayak back from the shore across the sandblasting beach with me leaning at a great angle into the wind, was another story.
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12 August 2012
Photo: sailing in rough waters
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Sunday morning paddle in the warm Queensland winter sun... then suddenly got bumpy.
A fun outing with just 12 knots of wind.
Flat Earth sail with Northern Light Greenland paddle.
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Sunday morning paddle in the warm Queensland winter sun... then suddenly got bumpy.
A fun outing with just 12 knots of wind.
Flat Earth sail with Northern Light Greenland paddle.
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17 July 2012
VIDEO: Zipper Zone Futzing
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I like it bumpy, always have.
From bicycles pedalled on rocky terrain, motorcycles ridden off road to bushwalking cross country I recognize a passion for the challenging conditions.
Mindless rhythmical power exertion of my body does not interest me and I usually seek locations where skills and balance are more important than muscles. The same goes for sea kayaking: I seek waters that offer a bit of excitement and unpredictability, where I have to use my body and bracing to keep myself upright.
select HD if you have fast Internet connection
My local paddling location is a sheltered bay away from ocean swell and lacking a rocky coastline I don’t have anywhere to practice my balancing skills in clapotis rebound. Moreton Bay however has a decent tidal flow with 6-7 feet of height variation at spring tides creating shifting banks of sand a few miles from the shore. Power boaters avoid the area and take a different route to travel to the big sandy Moreton Island. I instead seek those locations where tidal flow, residual ocean swell and small wind waves, from the opposite direction, meet over shallow waters of sand banks. The opposing forces of the two waves collide and at the right moment peak high with a great splash. With the confidence offered by the Northern Light Greenland paddle, I play in the area hoping to get caught in the very spot of collision to get tossed high in the air.
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I like it bumpy, always have.
From bicycles pedalled on rocky terrain, motorcycles ridden off road to bushwalking cross country I recognize a passion for the challenging conditions.
Mindless rhythmical power exertion of my body does not interest me and I usually seek locations where skills and balance are more important than muscles. The same goes for sea kayaking: I seek waters that offer a bit of excitement and unpredictability, where I have to use my body and bracing to keep myself upright.
select HD if you have fast Internet connection
My local paddling location is a sheltered bay away from ocean swell and lacking a rocky coastline I don’t have anywhere to practice my balancing skills in clapotis rebound. Moreton Bay however has a decent tidal flow with 6-7 feet of height variation at spring tides creating shifting banks of sand a few miles from the shore. Power boaters avoid the area and take a different route to travel to the big sandy Moreton Island. I instead seek those locations where tidal flow, residual ocean swell and small wind waves, from the opposite direction, meet over shallow waters of sand banks. The opposing forces of the two waves collide and at the right moment peak high with a great splash. With the confidence offered by the Northern Light Greenland paddle, I play in the area hoping to get caught in the very spot of collision to get tossed high in the air.
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02 July 2012
PHOTO: zipper play
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The wind was gone and so were the waves. I looked for something to play in and I had to content myself with a small "zipper".
It's when two waves from different directions collide together at a slight angle and form this imaginary zipper that appears to close together. The bay I often paddle has decent tidal flows that create banks of sand miles away from shore. Leaving the fishing folk behind, I played around in the shallow water trying to get caught in the zipper zone.
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The wind was gone and so were the waves. I looked for something to play in and I had to content myself with a small "zipper".
It's when two waves from different directions collide together at a slight angle and form this imaginary zipper that appears to close together. The bay I often paddle has decent tidal flows that create banks of sand miles away from shore. Leaving the fishing folk behind, I played around in the shallow water trying to get caught in the zipper zone.
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26 June 2012
TECHNIQUE: Greenland paddles used in all conditions
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The popularity of Greenland paddles has been growing rapidly. I no longer feel like being the "ugly duckling" when I meet other paddlers on the water and while there is still some disdain in certain circles the majority of the paddlers are accepting GPs as an alternative style to the high angle big blade Euro paddling.
But like all things that are different and don't conform to the status quo, they attract resistance by the old school masters. Ironically Greenland paddles are one of the oldest forms of paddles, it's just that modern materials have allowed for advancements in paddle design that led to short and wide blades that then became the norm and the old form was nearly forgotten (even tho short and wide was not unknown, just not as popular as in modern times).
The renessaince of the Greenland paddle would seem to be driven by nostalgia and would appeal to sea kayakers that work with timber and like to make their own equipment.
And that is true for the vast majority of the Greenland paddlers.
As Greenland paddles excel for rolling and plenty of paddlers practice the art of rolling with GPs, they are often also associated with paddling in calm conditions where an easy steady pace to cover distance is often sufficient and matches the speed of Euro paddling.
But things change when we talk about dynamic waters.
A lot of paddlers shake their heads when I suggest that the GP is a very useful and powerful paddle in the textured waters. Surely there is a difference between the skinny stick and the fat blade, is their argument.
Yes, there is an undeniable difference between the "big water" short blade of white water inspired sea kayak paddle and the distributed surface of a GP.
I would like to emphasize the "distributed"
A lot of Greenland paddles have a surface area that is similar to touring Euro paddles. Yep, if one measures the whole blade of the GP the numbers add up. If the GP is on the long side (230cm+)the surface area is actually surprising large and can exceed the widest Euro paddles, however I find no need to have an extra wide or long GP for playing in dynamic waters. A typical cruising GP stroke is a low angle one where often just a portion of the blade is inserted into the water.
That is actually all is needed to cruise in a sea kayak: very little effort in propelling that hull in the water.
If one wants to then push the kayak and get close to hull speed more energy is required. While the common conception is that one has to paddle "faster" (higher cadence) to go faster with a GP I tend to change the angle of insertion of the blade into the water.
Once my stroke angle becomes higher I can deliver more blade into the water (more surface) and I have more resistance (less "slipping" back of the paddle) to apply more energy to my stroke. I can travel just as fast with a GP than with a EP.
So how does that translate to dynamic water paddling?
James Manke using a Greenland paddle (Northern Light) in all comditions
I use a higher angle when paddling in the surf zone, where I want a faster acceleration with my kayak; more blade enters the water allowing me to have more grunt.
Of course, water being a fluid substance, will flow around the skinny GP easier than a fat EP and while the difference is noticeable is not impossible to overcome. It is at this moment that I apply a higher cadence to achieve the desired initial propulsion in my kayak.
I think of it as driving a smaller engine car that is delivering the desired power by revving higher than a big block V8; the feel is different but the results similar.
So, in the surf zone where acceleration is really needed I have a higher angle and a higher cadence.
It is a short burst that is needed to get me gliding along with the energy of the wave.
The biggest benefit I find in a GP is the gentle support that it offers in a high brace.
As I surf along the wave I often broach, where my kayak is suddenly in line with the wave and getting pushed along sideways. If I don't want to get tipped I use a high brace to stabilize myself, like an outrigger.
As the waves can be occasionally powerful when I broach, the paddle in a high brace position tends to get elevated to the surface of the water. I feel that with a Greenland paddle that force is never as strong as with a wide bladed EP where a high position of my elbow could risk getting me a dislocated shoulder.
I seem to be able to contain that force and try to keep my arm in a much safer location.
Few can demonstrate the validity of the of the GP as an all rounder paddle better than Warren Williamson can in this video of extremely fast and turbulent waters of Deception Pass in WA, USA.
And while the current record of paddling around Vancouver Island is held by Joe O'Blenis with a Greenland paddle, we even have the Brits joining in the retro revolution with paddling around their big island .
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The popularity of Greenland paddles has been growing rapidly. I no longer feel like being the "ugly duckling" when I meet other paddlers on the water and while there is still some disdain in certain circles the majority of the paddlers are accepting GPs as an alternative style to the high angle big blade Euro paddling.
But like all things that are different and don't conform to the status quo, they attract resistance by the old school masters. Ironically Greenland paddles are one of the oldest forms of paddles, it's just that modern materials have allowed for advancements in paddle design that led to short and wide blades that then became the norm and the old form was nearly forgotten (even tho short and wide was not unknown, just not as popular as in modern times).
The renessaince of the Greenland paddle would seem to be driven by nostalgia and would appeal to sea kayakers that work with timber and like to make their own equipment.
And that is true for the vast majority of the Greenland paddlers.
As Greenland paddles excel for rolling and plenty of paddlers practice the art of rolling with GPs, they are often also associated with paddling in calm conditions where an easy steady pace to cover distance is often sufficient and matches the speed of Euro paddling.
But things change when we talk about dynamic waters.
A lot of paddlers shake their heads when I suggest that the GP is a very useful and powerful paddle in the textured waters. Surely there is a difference between the skinny stick and the fat blade, is their argument.
Yes, there is an undeniable difference between the "big water" short blade of white water inspired sea kayak paddle and the distributed surface of a GP.
I would like to emphasize the "distributed"
A lot of Greenland paddles have a surface area that is similar to touring Euro paddles. Yep, if one measures the whole blade of the GP the numbers add up. If the GP is on the long side (230cm+)the surface area is actually surprising large and can exceed the widest Euro paddles, however I find no need to have an extra wide or long GP for playing in dynamic waters. A typical cruising GP stroke is a low angle one where often just a portion of the blade is inserted into the water.
That is actually all is needed to cruise in a sea kayak: very little effort in propelling that hull in the water.
If one wants to then push the kayak and get close to hull speed more energy is required. While the common conception is that one has to paddle "faster" (higher cadence) to go faster with a GP I tend to change the angle of insertion of the blade into the water.
Once my stroke angle becomes higher I can deliver more blade into the water (more surface) and I have more resistance (less "slipping" back of the paddle) to apply more energy to my stroke. I can travel just as fast with a GP than with a EP.
So how does that translate to dynamic water paddling?
James Manke using a Greenland paddle (Northern Light) in all comditions
I use a higher angle when paddling in the surf zone, where I want a faster acceleration with my kayak; more blade enters the water allowing me to have more grunt.
Of course, water being a fluid substance, will flow around the skinny GP easier than a fat EP and while the difference is noticeable is not impossible to overcome. It is at this moment that I apply a higher cadence to achieve the desired initial propulsion in my kayak.
I think of it as driving a smaller engine car that is delivering the desired power by revving higher than a big block V8; the feel is different but the results similar.
So, in the surf zone where acceleration is really needed I have a higher angle and a higher cadence.
It is a short burst that is needed to get me gliding along with the energy of the wave.
The biggest benefit I find in a GP is the gentle support that it offers in a high brace.
As I surf along the wave I often broach, where my kayak is suddenly in line with the wave and getting pushed along sideways. If I don't want to get tipped I use a high brace to stabilize myself, like an outrigger.
As the waves can be occasionally powerful when I broach, the paddle in a high brace position tends to get elevated to the surface of the water. I feel that with a Greenland paddle that force is never as strong as with a wide bladed EP where a high position of my elbow could risk getting me a dislocated shoulder.
I seem to be able to contain that force and try to keep my arm in a much safer location.
Few can demonstrate the validity of the of the GP as an all rounder paddle better than Warren Williamson can in this video of extremely fast and turbulent waters of Deception Pass in WA, USA.
And while the current record of paddling around Vancouver Island is held by Joe O'Blenis with a Greenland paddle, we even have the Brits joining in the retro revolution with paddling around their big island .
.
22 June 2012
VIDEO: having fun at dawn patrol
This guy knows how to have fun!
Embracing temperatures that I would consider rather cold for wet fun, Fat Paddler is happy to get out of bed when is still dark and line up at the beach for first light with his surfski.
I rarely have the opportunity to be on the water when the sun rises (OK it did happened once and it was just on freezing) but to then be chasing the “green room”?
Fat Paddler recommends full screen and full blast sound
I have never been know for raising early but given this prospect I could be talked into it :-)
Fat Paddler has been exploring the waterways of Sydney Harbour and beyond for the last couple of years.
He doesn't discriminate between canoes, sea kayaks, white water or skinny surfski: he loves it all.
Occasionally he even grabs a skinny paddle to mix it up.
Chasing no records and ruled by no governing body his love for the water is infectious.
More stories of his aquatic journeys at Fat Paddler website.
03 April 2012
VIDEO: backsurfing with a stick
I am gaining confidence with my Northern Light Greenland paddle and slowly I have improved my maneuverability in small surf. From the small shore break I have progressed to something just a bit more challenging.
select 720p if you have fast Internet connection
I still have not had the opportunity (and the courage) to tackle large waves and I am working on edging my kayak when the world slides backwards.
In the meantime I am learning how to control my kayaks when surfed in reverse and avoid being broached too soon.
The thrill of not seeing where I am going and the fear of getting pitched stern deep into the water compensates for my lame technique. This play-boating teaches me timing and body-weight shift to maximize the free ride.
Would a rudder help me?
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select 720p if you have fast Internet connection
I still have not had the opportunity (and the courage) to tackle large waves and I am working on edging my kayak when the world slides backwards.
In the meantime I am learning how to control my kayaks when surfed in reverse and avoid being broached too soon.
The thrill of not seeing where I am going and the fear of getting pitched stern deep into the water compensates for my lame technique. This play-boating teaches me timing and body-weight shift to maximize the free ride.
Would a rudder help me?
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11 March 2012
13 February 2012
VIDEO: Shoreplay
With a few daylight hours left I paddled to one of my favorite places away from the crowds.
The waves were only small and hardly challenging but there was fun to be had playing close to the shore.
select HD if you have fast Internet connection
The volume on a Swede-form kayak is concentrated more to the rear giving it an increased tendency of broaching in following seas. I am now aware of this trait and I find my hard chined hard tracking kayak easy to backsurf.
I think of it as a Fish-form hull designed to go in reverse :-)
Kayak: Zegul520, paddle: Northern Light Greenland
PS you have seen this camera angle here first; copycats will follow :-)
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The waves were only small and hardly challenging but there was fun to be had playing close to the shore.
select HD if you have fast Internet connection
The volume on a Swede-form kayak is concentrated more to the rear giving it an increased tendency of broaching in following seas. I am now aware of this trait and I find my hard chined hard tracking kayak easy to backsurf.
I think of it as a Fish-form hull designed to go in reverse :-)
Kayak: Zegul520, paddle: Northern Light Greenland
PS you have seen this camera angle here first; copycats will follow :-)
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20 October 2011
Photo: balanced brace
Adveturetess just floating and stretching her back.
The balanced brace is the foundation to many Greenland rolls.
Once a paddler masters the balance brace he/she can roll with so much more grace using the body to turn the boat, not the resistance or momentum offered by the paddle or hand.
Unfortunately I am not flexible enough to balance brace and my Butterfly rolls are performed with force and momentum with plenty of support from the paddle.
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07 August 2011
PHOTO: paddling at sunset
Half of me was saying: is not worth it, the other half: don't be lazy...
I only had less than an hour of light left before darkness and I was not sure if getting the kayaks to the water and dressing myself was going to pay off the effort.
The motorboats gone, it was an almost windless evening. A couple of eagles were still soaring hoping to get dinner while small fish were jumping out from the golden water, in front of our bows.
The sky turned slowly a faint pink to later fade into a deeper purple.
There was nothing to disturb this idyllic moment.
All I could hear was the rhythmical, almost silent, gentle splash of my paddle.
The perfect way to finish the day.
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01 March 2011
TECHNIQUE: reenter and roll
As my paddling skills advanced my kayaks reduced their beam.
My first boats sported a hefty beam of 62 cm (24"!). These days I mainly paddle kayaks 53 cm (21") wide.
As the width decreased the "tippiness" increased and that started to challenge some of my skills.
While I feel that most kayaks are rather stable when under way I have trouble keeping a kayak stable without having a paddle in my hand. I often take photographs from the cockpit but rarely in calm waters. A boat that does have weak initial stability is sometimes a challenge to keep upright, if I can't hold my paddle.
Consequently my self rescue technique also had to be reexamined.
I can no longer do the "cowboy" recovery when going for a swim. An assisted rescue is necessary if I want to keep the boat upright when reentering it.
Once I learned to roll proficiently, the most efficient self recovery for me is a reenter and roll.
A straight R&R had not been a problem in my beamy Impex Assateague. I would roll back up and empty the flooded cockpit with my electric bilge pump. While the pump was doing its work I would reattach my spray skirt.
Not so in my narrow beam kayaks. Once the cockpit is flooded the boat becomes more unstable to the point that a paddle is necessary to keep myself upright in textured water.
So, if I am recovering with a R&R I have little chance of putting the skirt back in place since I use both hands to do it and I have to let go of the paddle.
I found out that a reenter, skirt attachment underwater and roll was my best solution.
After a few practice runs I improved the technique.
As I roll back up, I now just switch on my pump and brace for a few minutes until the cockpit is empty again.
Sure we all claim to have "bombproof" rolls and a wet exit is not an option but I still manage to take a swim every so often :-)
My first boats sported a hefty beam of 62 cm (24"!). These days I mainly paddle kayaks 53 cm (21") wide.
As the width decreased the "tippiness" increased and that started to challenge some of my skills.
While I feel that most kayaks are rather stable when under way I have trouble keeping a kayak stable without having a paddle in my hand. I often take photographs from the cockpit but rarely in calm waters. A boat that does have weak initial stability is sometimes a challenge to keep upright, if I can't hold my paddle.
Consequently my self rescue technique also had to be reexamined.
I can no longer do the "cowboy" recovery when going for a swim. An assisted rescue is necessary if I want to keep the boat upright when reentering it.
Once I learned to roll proficiently, the most efficient self recovery for me is a reenter and roll.
A straight R&R had not been a problem in my beamy Impex Assateague. I would roll back up and empty the flooded cockpit with my electric bilge pump. While the pump was doing its work I would reattach my spray skirt.
Not so in my narrow beam kayaks. Once the cockpit is flooded the boat becomes more unstable to the point that a paddle is necessary to keep myself upright in textured water.
So, if I am recovering with a R&R I have little chance of putting the skirt back in place since I use both hands to do it and I have to let go of the paddle.
I found out that a reenter, skirt attachment underwater and roll was my best solution.
After a few practice runs I improved the technique.
As I roll back up, I now just switch on my pump and brace for a few minutes until the cockpit is empty again.
Sure we all claim to have "bombproof" rolls and a wet exit is not an option but I still manage to take a swim every so often :-)
01 February 2011
Sailing instead of paddling
The paddling conditions this season have been rather windy.
Week-end forecasts have regularly been 15 knots or more which most seem to consider an unpleasant environment to paddle in.
Slogging into a wind of 20 knots for hours on end is not exactly great fun.
Not wanting to spend precious days of my free time off the water I plan my paddles around the direction of the wind instead.
I try to pick a launching location that, with the wind blowing on the beam of my kayak, would give an island destination in Moreton Bay. And then I pack a sail.
What could be a slog suddenly becomes great fun. Sailing my sea kayak is not strictly paddling but I don't mind mixing it up a bit.
sailing with Flat Earth Kayak Sails
The best part of windy day on the water is that it's usually deserted.
No stinkboats to destroy the mood. Just a few yachts that usually are friendly enough to give me a wave seeing that we share the same medium.
Week-end forecasts have regularly been 15 knots or more which most seem to consider an unpleasant environment to paddle in.
Slogging into a wind of 20 knots for hours on end is not exactly great fun.
Not wanting to spend precious days of my free time off the water I plan my paddles around the direction of the wind instead.
I try to pick a launching location that, with the wind blowing on the beam of my kayak, would give an island destination in Moreton Bay. And then I pack a sail.
What could be a slog suddenly becomes great fun. Sailing my sea kayak is not strictly paddling but I don't mind mixing it up a bit.
sailing with Flat Earth Kayak Sails
The best part of windy day on the water is that it's usually deserted.
No stinkboats to destroy the mood. Just a few yachts that usually are friendly enough to give me a wave seeing that we share the same medium.
25 October 2010
TEST: Zegul 520 LV
I had the opportunity to do a brief test paddle of a brand new kayak: the Zegul 520 LV (by Tahe Marine).
The local importer had several new (to Australia) sea kayaks available for testing but the Zegul 520 definitely caught my eye over the 530 and the 550 models aimed towards the "need for speed" crowd.
Its profile resembles a more traditional kayak (so called Greenland lines) with a healthy overhanging bow.
With possibly a more pronounced upturned ends than the typical skin on frame kayak that I have seen, the hull appeared to have a considerable rocker in its keel.
The bow and stern are not as fine as the Tahe Greenland (also on offer at the demo) as there is more volume in those areas.
Actually the whole kayak is more "chunky" than the super-sleek looking Greenland.
With its generously long keyhole cockpit I could seat "bum first, legs later", even with my rather long legs.
The coaming slopes aggressively from high up front to pretty low on the back (I had no chance to get those measurements...).
Compared to the Greenland T, the front was substantially higher and the rear probably an inch higher.
Looking at the profile of the cockpit it had good credentials to be a "comfortable" low rear-deck kayak.
My quick compression test (the good old fashioned: press with my hand on the deck and hull) revealed that this kayak's lay-up had a bit more substance than the alarmingly soft deck of some other "glitter finish" British offerings :-)
The hull is a very solid carbon/Kevlar weave that is vacuum infused .
The finish is superb, inside and out.
The rear deck has a very clever profile that despite looking flat gives the surface an very positive support for possible over the deck reentry (not that you would on such a narrow high end kayak) and did not flex when I sat on it.
Initially I was sceptical about the third hatch in front of the cockpit: my experience with another British boat with that design was not positive.
But, on the Zegul, it proved to be out of the way of my knees and just big enough to store small items (compact camera, snack, towrope etc.)
The seat was a bit on the narrow side (may I say that my ass ain't size 30....).
I didn't like the configuration of the backband anchor point inboard, on the seat pan.
I would move it to the exterior of the pan and have a smooth surface with no plastic protruding into my hips.
The Zegul 520 trialled was an LV (low volume) version.
My thighs were just getting pinched at the start of the thigh braces.
I think I would fit the HV version better.
Kudos to Zegul (Tahe) for identifying that one size does not fit all body types and having two deck versions of the same hull.
Greg balance bracing Zegul 520 LV
How did it behave on the water?
Better than expected.
Where you expecting it to behave bad?
Well, not really, but hopping in a new boat that is considerably narrower than my current kayaks, I was expecting the initial stability to be a bit more tender.
Interestingly enough Vanilla found the Zegul not as stable as I did.
Admittedly I thought it was a bit more tippy than the Tahe Greenland but I still felt confident to let go of the paddle and relax.
It will be interesting to see how the Zegul behaves in textured waters.
The low deck allowed me to lay on the back of the deck (with PFD) without lifting my bum out of the seat: great.
Finally a kayak that fits my legs and allows lay-backs.
The Zegul appeared to track straight (short test paddle with very little wind) and could be turned relatively sharp with a gentle sweep stroke and edging. The hard chined hull allows for precise maneuvering and correction of direction by dropping and edge, something that my round hulled kayak does not.
I felt a solid secondary stability and could drop the seam of the deck lower into the water than usual, without going over.
The Zegul shined when rolled: really.
With my limited rolling skills I could perform very slow Greenland layback rolls, something that I can't do too well in my high decked kayaks.
Skulling was a breeze, to the point of falling into a static brace with little effort.
The cockpit is roomy enough to allow my body to twist and my legs to move and apply pressure onto the deck to rotate the hull.
When I asked Greg Schwarz to briefly test the Zegul I just watched in awe the beautiful moves he could perform.
Then again Greg looks good in just about any kayak.
select 360p (not 720p) if you have slow internet connection
The Zegul 520 is a strong contender in my search for that elusive "Greenland style" kayak that would fit my non slender figure.
The quality of construction is impeccable and with the considerable lower price than the British competitors Tahe has brought to the masses a fantastic line-up of new kayaks.
PS FEB2011: I have added a Zegul 520 HV to my fleet and after a few paddles I have modified the cockpit set up. Details of the new seating arrangement coming soon...
The local importer had several new (to Australia) sea kayaks available for testing but the Zegul 520 definitely caught my eye over the 530 and the 550 models aimed towards the "need for speed" crowd.
Its profile resembles a more traditional kayak (so called Greenland lines) with a healthy overhanging bow.
With possibly a more pronounced upturned ends than the typical skin on frame kayak that I have seen, the hull appeared to have a considerable rocker in its keel.
The bow and stern are not as fine as the Tahe Greenland (also on offer at the demo) as there is more volume in those areas.
Actually the whole kayak is more "chunky" than the super-sleek looking Greenland.
With its generously long keyhole cockpit I could seat "bum first, legs later", even with my rather long legs.
The coaming slopes aggressively from high up front to pretty low on the back (I had no chance to get those measurements...).
Compared to the Greenland T, the front was substantially higher and the rear probably an inch higher.
Looking at the profile of the cockpit it had good credentials to be a "comfortable" low rear-deck kayak.
My quick compression test (the good old fashioned: press with my hand on the deck and hull) revealed that this kayak's lay-up had a bit more substance than the alarmingly soft deck of some other "glitter finish" British offerings :-)
The hull is a very solid carbon/Kevlar weave that is vacuum infused .
The finish is superb, inside and out.
The rear deck has a very clever profile that despite looking flat gives the surface an very positive support for possible over the deck reentry (not that you would on such a narrow high end kayak) and did not flex when I sat on it.
Initially I was sceptical about the third hatch in front of the cockpit: my experience with another British boat with that design was not positive.
But, on the Zegul, it proved to be out of the way of my knees and just big enough to store small items (compact camera, snack, towrope etc.)
The seat was a bit on the narrow side (may I say that my ass ain't size 30....).
I didn't like the configuration of the backband anchor point inboard, on the seat pan.
I would move it to the exterior of the pan and have a smooth surface with no plastic protruding into my hips.
The Zegul 520 trialled was an LV (low volume) version.
My thighs were just getting pinched at the start of the thigh braces.
I think I would fit the HV version better.
Kudos to Zegul (Tahe) for identifying that one size does not fit all body types and having two deck versions of the same hull.
Greg balance bracing Zegul 520 LV
How did it behave on the water?
Better than expected.
Where you expecting it to behave bad?
Well, not really, but hopping in a new boat that is considerably narrower than my current kayaks, I was expecting the initial stability to be a bit more tender.
Interestingly enough Vanilla found the Zegul not as stable as I did.
Admittedly I thought it was a bit more tippy than the Tahe Greenland but I still felt confident to let go of the paddle and relax.
It will be interesting to see how the Zegul behaves in textured waters.
The low deck allowed me to lay on the back of the deck (with PFD) without lifting my bum out of the seat: great.
Finally a kayak that fits my legs and allows lay-backs.
The Zegul appeared to track straight (short test paddle with very little wind) and could be turned relatively sharp with a gentle sweep stroke and edging. The hard chined hull allows for precise maneuvering and correction of direction by dropping and edge, something that my round hulled kayak does not.
I felt a solid secondary stability and could drop the seam of the deck lower into the water than usual, without going over.
The Zegul shined when rolled: really.
With my limited rolling skills I could perform very slow Greenland layback rolls, something that I can't do too well in my high decked kayaks.
Skulling was a breeze, to the point of falling into a static brace with little effort.
The cockpit is roomy enough to allow my body to twist and my legs to move and apply pressure onto the deck to rotate the hull.
When I asked Greg Schwarz to briefly test the Zegul I just watched in awe the beautiful moves he could perform.
Then again Greg looks good in just about any kayak.
select 360p (not 720p) if you have slow internet connection
The Zegul 520 is a strong contender in my search for that elusive "Greenland style" kayak that would fit my non slender figure.
The quality of construction is impeccable and with the considerable lower price than the British competitors Tahe has brought to the masses a fantastic line-up of new kayaks.
PS FEB2011: I have added a Zegul 520 HV to my fleet and after a few paddles I have modified the cockpit set up. Details of the new seating arrangement coming soon...
16 July 2010
VIDEO: surfing with a sticks
Camera: Adventuretess, Vanilla and Gnarlydog. Music: Stephen Robin
Video footage of surfing small waves near shore using Aleut paddles.
Capturing the "big stuff" from a kayak while in the rough is rather difficult...
I am working on it. Stay tuned :-)
28 June 2010
Feedback and advice: which boat is right for me?
From a recent email to Gnarlydog News:
>>
G'day Mate,
...I love the ocean paddles, my boat is a second hand plastic Tasman Express.
Having no knowledge of what to buy as a kayak I bought the first boat I saw.
The Tasman has done me proud and I am now looking to upgrade to glass.
I became a member of the sea kayak forum a short while ago and love everything on it, but yesterday I decided to have a look at your blog.
I have never had a look at anything like it before, I have to say I am blown away by your fantastic writings and knowledge.
I can hardly get away from the pc because you have so much for a bloke like me to read and study.
... I have paddled the new P.H. Cetus, a Valley, Shearwater, Tui, Sea Bear, Raider x and express, I can't make up my mind on what to buy and after reading just a small portion of all your information I am back at stage one....
Half an hour ago I read about how you made a new seat and a new back support and also the water storage system behind your seat.
Bloody hell, I'm out of me depth here I thought, this bloke Gnarly dog is a Whiz kid, how fantastic is your knowledge and the ability to pass it on to people like me.
My skill level is at the stage where I want a skeg boat because even in the Tasman I don't use the rudder unless I need it and that is only because the Tasman does not like a side wind, the rudder generally has to be used, except on the day where it packed up in two metre seas and twenty knot winds and I still paddled without the rudder by just sweeping and edging.
Now that was one hell of a day over thirty kms in heavy conditions, loved it...
....Do I just continue on trying out different boats till I feel comfortable with the way I handle it, do I buy a rudder or a skeg boat, remembering our conditions in the West similar to all Aust. Terry (...) has told me not to buy a boat without a rudder because why should I have to edge a boat and use a paddle to brace etc. when I can just move my big toe and the boat will steer.
That's Terry's thoughts and as you probably know he has done many thousands of miles in a kayak...
My idea is: I want to work on getting my skill level as high as possible.
I love the rough conditions and love winter paddling because my skill level accelerates pretty quick in the rough.
Les's boat looks and goes well with the people that bought one, and if I get one off him it will be custom made to suit me, my build and skills and be light enough for an old bloke like me to lift...
After all this writing here it only comes down to me wanting to say G'day to you and thank you for such an interesting reading blog.
Any ideas on boats etc will be appreciated, and I have weeks more reading to do just on your own web site...
Thanks again.
<< Dear "Reader",
thank you for your email and for your comments.
While some of my thoughts are somehow expressed in my blog there are a lot of ideas that I don't want to publish since a lot of paddlers (especially local ones) might get offended.
Please remember that in the end they are just the opinions of an average paddler with no formal qualifications.
I have however always had a critical eye for technical things.
While the industry tries to accommodate for so many different styles and tastes occasionally they produce untested or badly designed gear.
From what you say, you seem to be very active in the outdoors (way more than myself as weekend warrior).
I am familiar with only some of the boats that you mention: Cetus, Seabear, RaiderX.
You probably know my opinion about rudders: they are great for racing or comfortable cruising.
My skeg kayaks are generally slower and more demanding.
I often compare the two to cars: stick shift versus automatic.
What would I rather have? on a winding mountain road? or in day-to-day city traffic?
While I would love to drive a racy car on traffic-less sweeping-corners road the reality is that I drive an automatic car in city traffic.
Why? Because it’s easier than clutching and shifting gears all the time.
What has that got to do with kayaks?
For me paddling is fun, not just going form A to B with the minimal fuss.
If I paddled the way I drive chances are my kayaks would have a rudder.
I like to maneuver my kayak with my body, roll and occasionally surf. A ruddered boat is not generally ideally designed for that.
I had ruddered kayaks and they were good but not for what I wanted to do.
If my goal would be covering long distances in rather non demanding conditions with the minimum input from the paddler (myself) I would use a ruddered kayak.
I also have broken a few rudders in surf, but never a skeg.
I cut myself on rudders in choppy waters, I damaged boats when rafted up with rudders and I caught towing lines in rudders… they just aren’t for me.
I do however use a bit more effort in edging my skegged kayaks in following seas while cross winds are taken care with the deployment of the skeg.
While ruddered kayaks are often the preferred choice for some expeditioners, just as often I see skegged boats used for demanding long trips too.
It’s a personal choice.
I do however have strong reservations towards ruddered kayaks that are very difficult to paddle in conditions (wind or waves) with the rudder retracted.
Imagine a rudder failure (quite an occurrence) on a long trip.
Most skegged kayaks are relatively easy to paddle with a malfunctioning skeg (has not happen to me yet) while most rudder dependant kayaks are sometimes impossible, when windy.
A kayak should be your choice not somebody else’s.
What suits very well one paddler does not necessarily suit me. Boat fit, weight and skill level will dictate what the perfect boat is for you.
And "perfect" is only a perceived attribute that will probably last for a relatively short time.
As my skills progressed and my objectives changed the “perfect boat” suddenly became limiting or boring.
I have owned only a limited number of boats and I can see myself getting a few more (maybe selling the current ones, one day….) as my skills will progress and my goals will change.
Will I own a ruddered boat again?
I can’t see that happening right now, maybe in the future if I become lazy and I want to take it easy. I can't see myself racing :-)
Once you have decided on the style of kayak you want/need for the goals you have in mind, boat fit should be the deciding factor.
I like good contact with my upper thighs (not knees) on the thigh braces (some cockpits lack decent thigh braces, some don’t have thigh braces altogether).
I also like a bit of wiggle room for my legs too.
A kayak that finds me with the legs always stretched out to the floor is going to cramp me.
For a kayak that I spend paddling all day I like to see a bit of a bend in my knees.
While a comfortable seat does not determine the ultimate purchase (I have the skills to fabricate one that fits me) a person without the ability of customizing a seat should be wary of the seat that gives the dreaded “dead legs”.
And finally I look at the boat’s strength.
I have occasionally discarded a boat that I loved test paddling but that in my opinion was badly constructed.
While I can reinforce/modify/repair a kayak, I think that an top price brand new kayak should be right from the get-go and not spend weeks in my garage getting reinforced/modified.
Thank you for reading GnarlydogNews.
Best Regards.
Damiano
PS I would like to publish in GnarlydogNews your query (part of it) and my answer to you.
I would like to maintain your anonymity though...
>>
G'day Mate,
...I love the ocean paddles, my boat is a second hand plastic Tasman Express.
Having no knowledge of what to buy as a kayak I bought the first boat I saw.
The Tasman has done me proud and I am now looking to upgrade to glass.
I became a member of the sea kayak forum a short while ago and love everything on it, but yesterday I decided to have a look at your blog.
I have never had a look at anything like it before, I have to say I am blown away by your fantastic writings and knowledge.
I can hardly get away from the pc because you have so much for a bloke like me to read and study.
... I have paddled the new P.H. Cetus, a Valley, Shearwater, Tui, Sea Bear, Raider x and express, I can't make up my mind on what to buy and after reading just a small portion of all your information I am back at stage one....
Half an hour ago I read about how you made a new seat and a new back support and also the water storage system behind your seat.
Bloody hell, I'm out of me depth here I thought, this bloke Gnarly dog is a Whiz kid, how fantastic is your knowledge and the ability to pass it on to people like me.
My skill level is at the stage where I want a skeg boat because even in the Tasman I don't use the rudder unless I need it and that is only because the Tasman does not like a side wind, the rudder generally has to be used, except on the day where it packed up in two metre seas and twenty knot winds and I still paddled without the rudder by just sweeping and edging.
Now that was one hell of a day over thirty kms in heavy conditions, loved it...
....Do I just continue on trying out different boats till I feel comfortable with the way I handle it, do I buy a rudder or a skeg boat, remembering our conditions in the West similar to all Aust. Terry (...) has told me not to buy a boat without a rudder because why should I have to edge a boat and use a paddle to brace etc. when I can just move my big toe and the boat will steer.
That's Terry's thoughts and as you probably know he has done many thousands of miles in a kayak...
My idea is: I want to work on getting my skill level as high as possible.
I love the rough conditions and love winter paddling because my skill level accelerates pretty quick in the rough.
Les's boat looks and goes well with the people that bought one, and if I get one off him it will be custom made to suit me, my build and skills and be light enough for an old bloke like me to lift...
After all this writing here it only comes down to me wanting to say G'day to you and thank you for such an interesting reading blog.
Any ideas on boats etc will be appreciated, and I have weeks more reading to do just on your own web site...
Thanks again.
<< Dear "Reader",
thank you for your email and for your comments.
While some of my thoughts are somehow expressed in my blog there are a lot of ideas that I don't want to publish since a lot of paddlers (especially local ones) might get offended.
Please remember that in the end they are just the opinions of an average paddler with no formal qualifications.
I have however always had a critical eye for technical things.
While the industry tries to accommodate for so many different styles and tastes occasionally they produce untested or badly designed gear.
From what you say, you seem to be very active in the outdoors (way more than myself as weekend warrior).
I am familiar with only some of the boats that you mention: Cetus, Seabear, RaiderX.
You probably know my opinion about rudders: they are great for racing or comfortable cruising.
My skeg kayaks are generally slower and more demanding.
I often compare the two to cars: stick shift versus automatic.
What would I rather have? on a winding mountain road? or in day-to-day city traffic?
While I would love to drive a racy car on traffic-less sweeping-corners road the reality is that I drive an automatic car in city traffic.
Why? Because it’s easier than clutching and shifting gears all the time.
What has that got to do with kayaks?
For me paddling is fun, not just going form A to B with the minimal fuss.
If I paddled the way I drive chances are my kayaks would have a rudder.
I like to maneuver my kayak with my body, roll and occasionally surf. A ruddered boat is not generally ideally designed for that.
I had ruddered kayaks and they were good but not for what I wanted to do.
If my goal would be covering long distances in rather non demanding conditions with the minimum input from the paddler (myself) I would use a ruddered kayak.
I also have broken a few rudders in surf, but never a skeg.
I cut myself on rudders in choppy waters, I damaged boats when rafted up with rudders and I caught towing lines in rudders… they just aren’t for me.
I do however use a bit more effort in edging my skegged kayaks in following seas while cross winds are taken care with the deployment of the skeg.
While ruddered kayaks are often the preferred choice for some expeditioners, just as often I see skegged boats used for demanding long trips too.
It’s a personal choice.
I do however have strong reservations towards ruddered kayaks that are very difficult to paddle in conditions (wind or waves) with the rudder retracted.
Imagine a rudder failure (quite an occurrence) on a long trip.
Most skegged kayaks are relatively easy to paddle with a malfunctioning skeg (has not happen to me yet) while most rudder dependant kayaks are sometimes impossible, when windy.
A kayak should be your choice not somebody else’s.
What suits very well one paddler does not necessarily suit me. Boat fit, weight and skill level will dictate what the perfect boat is for you.
And "perfect" is only a perceived attribute that will probably last for a relatively short time.
As my skills progressed and my objectives changed the “perfect boat” suddenly became limiting or boring.
I have owned only a limited number of boats and I can see myself getting a few more (maybe selling the current ones, one day….) as my skills will progress and my goals will change.
Will I own a ruddered boat again?
I can’t see that happening right now, maybe in the future if I become lazy and I want to take it easy. I can't see myself racing :-)
Once you have decided on the style of kayak you want/need for the goals you have in mind, boat fit should be the deciding factor.
I like good contact with my upper thighs (not knees) on the thigh braces (some cockpits lack decent thigh braces, some don’t have thigh braces altogether).
I also like a bit of wiggle room for my legs too.
A kayak that finds me with the legs always stretched out to the floor is going to cramp me.
For a kayak that I spend paddling all day I like to see a bit of a bend in my knees.
While a comfortable seat does not determine the ultimate purchase (I have the skills to fabricate one that fits me) a person without the ability of customizing a seat should be wary of the seat that gives the dreaded “dead legs”.
And finally I look at the boat’s strength.
I have occasionally discarded a boat that I loved test paddling but that in my opinion was badly constructed.
While I can reinforce/modify/repair a kayak, I think that an top price brand new kayak should be right from the get-go and not spend weeks in my garage getting reinforced/modified.
Thank you for reading GnarlydogNews.
Best Regards.
Damiano
PS I would like to publish in GnarlydogNews your query (part of it) and my answer to you.
I would like to maintain your anonymity though...
05 August 2009
SHOP: DIY sea kayak foot brace
A paddling acquaintance of mine announced that he wanted to sell his beloved carbon/Kevlar sea kayak.
His reasoning was that the factory foot pedals collapsed on him once and the replacement ones did not look any better. He was not confident with the outfit of his otherwise great kayak.
While jokingly I promptly offered him a ridiculous sum to buy his kayak I added that if the foot pedals were his only problem it would be unwise to sell a kayak that he loved.
After making a few suggestions, with a simple solution on how to remove the existing plastic pedals and fabricate an aluminum bar as replacement, he no longer wished to part with his kayak.
On the next paddle he proudly showed me the modification. Admittedly he did a decent job.
His feet were resting on a bar that was spanning across the width of the hull offering more than one foot position.
His replacement foot bar prompted me to finally address my own foot pedal set- up in my prototype SeaBird Designs Northsea.
The kayak I have is a preproduction one where the outfit was not fully finalized and the foot pegs rails were not positioned correctly. A factory retrofit was done to ship the kayak in time but the job was below my standard.
As they say: "You don't buy a house because of its furniture"; I decided that the flexible factory foot pegs had to go.
.jpg)
Factory set up in pre-production Northsea. These foot pegs were for a rudder (that I removed and replaced with a skeg)
I wanted a secure wide bar to push my feet against.
I removed the rails and the foot pegs and fabricated a new rail from anodized aluminum "L" section.
I used the existing threaded studs to mount the rails.
.jpg)
replacement aluminum rails: "L" section anodized profile
The cross brace where my feet will rest against had to be rather wide and curved a bit.
I could have used the aluminum profile that I have used in my other kayaks but the adjustment in the SeaBird was different: the pegs and rail have been removed.
I set out to fabricate a cross bar made from foam and composite fiberglass and carbon.
I cut a wide section of foam core and heating it up with a heat gun I shaped it into a shallow channel.
I cut a slot in the end to create a tab for anchoring it on the aluminum "L" rail.
.jpg)
heat shaped foam core
The foam core was layered by double bias glass cloth and West System epoxy (105/206).
.jpg)
double bias covered by 4oz glass
Once cured I trimmed the excess cloth off from the edges.
Subsequent sessions did cover the front side with carbon cloth.
Carbon added a lot of strength and made the brace stiff.
Unfortunately carbon is not very abrasion resistant and an area that would see constant rubbing of shoes and sand had to be protected with a final layer of 2oz glass cloth.
.jpg)
2oz glass cloth covering carbon cloth
The foot brace once cured had the anchor tabs drilled and a last coat of epoxy was done for durability and looks.
Installing the cross brace meant careful alignment on the aluminum rails and a row of holes for adjustment (different leg lengths).
I used a 1/4" stainless steel bolt and a wing nut (rubber washer) for securing the foot brace.
.jpg)
Replacement foot brace installed (not shown with wing nuts but nylocks)
His reasoning was that the factory foot pedals collapsed on him once and the replacement ones did not look any better. He was not confident with the outfit of his otherwise great kayak.
While jokingly I promptly offered him a ridiculous sum to buy his kayak I added that if the foot pedals were his only problem it would be unwise to sell a kayak that he loved.
After making a few suggestions, with a simple solution on how to remove the existing plastic pedals and fabricate an aluminum bar as replacement, he no longer wished to part with his kayak.
On the next paddle he proudly showed me the modification. Admittedly he did a decent job.
His feet were resting on a bar that was spanning across the width of the hull offering more than one foot position.
His replacement foot bar prompted me to finally address my own foot pedal set- up in my prototype SeaBird Designs Northsea.
The kayak I have is a preproduction one where the outfit was not fully finalized and the foot pegs rails were not positioned correctly. A factory retrofit was done to ship the kayak in time but the job was below my standard.
As they say: "You don't buy a house because of its furniture"; I decided that the flexible factory foot pegs had to go.
.jpg)
Factory set up in pre-production Northsea. These foot pegs were for a rudder (that I removed and replaced with a skeg)
I wanted a secure wide bar to push my feet against.
I removed the rails and the foot pegs and fabricated a new rail from anodized aluminum "L" section.
I used the existing threaded studs to mount the rails.
.jpg)
replacement aluminum rails: "L" section anodized profile
The cross brace where my feet will rest against had to be rather wide and curved a bit.
I could have used the aluminum profile that I have used in my other kayaks but the adjustment in the SeaBird was different: the pegs and rail have been removed.
I set out to fabricate a cross bar made from foam and composite fiberglass and carbon.
I cut a wide section of foam core and heating it up with a heat gun I shaped it into a shallow channel.
I cut a slot in the end to create a tab for anchoring it on the aluminum "L" rail.
.jpg)
heat shaped foam core
The foam core was layered by double bias glass cloth and West System epoxy (105/206).
.jpg)
double bias covered by 4oz glass
Once cured I trimmed the excess cloth off from the edges.
Subsequent sessions did cover the front side with carbon cloth.
Carbon added a lot of strength and made the brace stiff.
Unfortunately carbon is not very abrasion resistant and an area that would see constant rubbing of shoes and sand had to be protected with a final layer of 2oz glass cloth.
.jpg)
2oz glass cloth covering carbon cloth
The foot brace once cured had the anchor tabs drilled and a last coat of epoxy was done for durability and looks.
Installing the cross brace meant careful alignment on the aluminum rails and a row of holes for adjustment (different leg lengths).
I used a 1/4" stainless steel bolt and a wing nut (rubber washer) for securing the foot brace.
.jpg)
Replacement foot brace installed (not shown with wing nuts but nylocks)
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