SHOP: replacing a Valley seat

Valley has recently changed the seat in their sea kayaks (2010).

The previous kayaks were shipped with the above seat.
Some paddlers found a problem with the shape of the seat and the configuration of the back band.
The seat shape did not suit a lot of kayakers that would spend long time on the water and the backband would hinder some rescues.

As shipped from factory the back band would tend to fold down under the paddlers bottom when a rescue (assisted or self) is performed.
Some kayakers have modified the retention system to make the back band more secure and prevent dislogment and nuisance when reentering the cockpit.
But the more important concern is that the shape of the seat seems to cause severe rubbing with some users.
The "slope" of the pan on the rear is too gentle and when the kayak is paddled efficiently with pressure on the footpegs and consequently the body of the paddlers pushed back, the seat would rub the tail bone.
On long crossing some kayakers would rub all the skin off of the end of the spine area and consequently be in pain.
Comparing the Valley seat to other sea kayaks' seat I notice the pronounced difference and tried to rectify the problem.
The Valley seat seems to be made from polyethylene and I tried to use a heat gun and reshape some of the seat and create a better pan.
Unfortunately such solution only alleviated the problem but did not really fix it.
A new seat pan had to be made.

I was lucky to borrow Greg Schwarz's mold that he has made for replacing an ill shaped seat on a different kayak.
In a conventional lay up of double bias glass and 4oz cloth, I used epoxy as resin.
In some areas of high stress I used additional layers of carbon/Kevlar cloth to reinforce possible weak spots (something I have learned by repairing other manufacturer's seats).
A hung seat sees a lot of stress in the "bracket" area.
I did not want to carve a simple but effective closed cell (minicell) foam seat because it prevents the flow of water to the electric bilge pump located behind the seat.
Foam seats are great: easy to fabricate, very comfortable but don't allow water flow to the rear bulkhead.

Greg's mold allows for a channel to let water flow though the middle, under the seat.

Visible in the image above is the front of the new seat installed in a Norkdkapp LV. Expanding polyurethane foam was used for supporting the front of the pan.

The new seat has a much longer pan and offers outstanding thigh support.

This is the second seat that I have fabricate from that mold and to date is the best sea kayak seat for me. While some other seats would offer reasonable comfort others would give me the dreaded "dead legs" on long outings.

This seat however addresses the compression of the sciatica nerve problem and eliminates discomfort that some seats bring.

seat installed in Nordkapp LV, rear bulkhead with electric bilge pump

I decide to remove the back band all together and go for a foam block instead.

A well shaped foam block offers support where needed but eliminates the problem of back bands falling under the paddlers bum in a rescue.

Fabricating a foam back block required the lamination of 4 pieces of coarse closed cell foam (type of foam used for industrial packaging) and carving the centre section to allow for the bilge pump.

foam sections laminated with contact adhesive _ underside of foam back block

The back block is shaped to the contour of the rear bulkhead and fits snugly behind the seat.

To prevent accidental dislogment I used a bungee retention cord (with olive) threaded through the block.

The section of the back block that contacts the body has a softer last layer of quality minicell.

Shown here before final the layer of neoprene that will cover the block.

The new seat installed.

I used a simple anodized aluminium bracket fashioned from a 2" L section.

Stainless steel nuts and bolts to secure the seat to the bracket.

SHOP: leakproof through bulkhead hose

In a previous post I have described a solution for a hydration system.
The water bladder sits under the deck, on a “shelf”, and the drinking hose sits in front of me on the deck.
In the Nordkapp LV the deck is lower and less space is available in the foredeck.
Water bottles positioned under the bungees on deck just don’t cut it as they often end up in the sea, especially in rougher conditions.
While on short trips carrying water on the PFD is a possible solution (small amount of water) in the heat of summer in Queensland a liter of water does not get you far.
Hydration in a subtropical locale is a serious consideration.
The water bladder could not go behind the seat (Valley makes sure that the rear cockpit bulkhead is tight against the seat) so the best solution was to place it in the day hatch.
I wanted a positive seal between the drinking hose of the hydration system and the bulkhead.
A simple hole that is just undersized drilled in the deck might not do the job: small amounts of water could still get through and wet items that are otherwise totally dry in a Valley hatch.
I decided to position the drinking hose to the left of the cockpit.
On the right hand side there is the day hatch cover and the outlet spigot for the electric bilge pump.



After drilling a smaller hole with a high speed drill (Dremel_ I use high speed or gel coat chipping can occur) I enlarged it to a slightly undersized dimension for the clear PVC water hose.
I placed an “O” ring on the hose that is slightly constrictive and let it sit on the hose for a while.
The “O” ring would create a small indent in the hose making sure it will really seal well.


I roughened up a circle on the gel coat around the hole, clear off the “O” ring, cleaned the surface with acetone and inserted a slightly greased up (mold release) hose and “O” ring hard against the gel coat.

roughened-up circle on gel coat; hose and "O" ring inserted
I mixed up a small quantity of West System epoxy 105 with 207 hardener (UV stabilized), added some tint (I didn’t like the pale yellow color) and thickened it with microfiber (for strength and workability).
With a toothpick I carefully covered the “O” ring creating a full encasement of the ring.

After curing it overnight I removed the hose (it released easily since it was greased up) and shaved away the excess epoxy to make a smooth “fitting”

epoxy still needs polishing
The “O” ring is now encased in the resin with the rubber surface against the PVC hose making it really leak proof.

PS MAR'10 For a much simpler solution that does not require epoxy Kiwibird managed to source just the right size rubber grommet.

It apppears that her solution is just as effective as mine.

If you can get hold of a grommet that fits the hose tightly I suggest to follow her set up.

The hose can still be slid in-out to shorten or lengthen it according to the paddler's needs.

The hose end inside the day hatch has a quick release coupling that came with the bladder so removing and filling up the bladder is a breeze.
The hose is usually stashed under the deck bungees and can be easily reached when needed for a drink.

After trying different solutions for a drinking system this one seems to address all the shortcomings of the other(*) systems.

* other systems that I tried:

-1) water bottle on deck: not enough water, fall off and hinder some paddle strokes.
-2) water bladder on PFD: if enough water in bladder for a day’s supply PFD becomes rather heavy on the shoulders. Also hinders rolling.
-3) water bladder in cockpit and drinking hose threaded through tunnel of spray deck: bad idea in case of wet exit (rough waters) and inevitably pain in the butt when forgetting to remove before landing :-)

PS: Kiwibird simplified the drink hose system by using a rubber fitting that needs no epoxy work; details here

Sea kayak grab handles

source *: http://www.kayaking.com.au/brochurefiles/Ocean.pdf
A sea kayak to be safe must have grab handles.

Just like its perimeter lines, the grab handles are used to hold onto the kayak when out of the boat.

While perimeter lines are essential to perform an assisted rescue and vital for hanging onto your vessel in rough waters, the grab handles perform also other duties.

They are needed in towing situations but most often are used by the paddler in a wet exit in the surf zone.

When paddling in ocean conditions chances are you might need to land on a beach where surf is encountered. Most paddlers have been dumped at some stage out of their kayak (some more than others) and probably had to hang onto the boat to prevent their vessel being smashed onto shore by the following waves.

The best location to hold onto your kayak is the bow or stern where you can point the vessel into the incoming force of the wave and minimize the impact (less surface area).

Unfortunately not all kayaks have stern grab handles because of rudders.

The waves don't even have to be that big to surf your kayak away from you if not held tight.

Often the wave will twist your kayak when you hanging onto it by the grab handle.

Most likely you will have your full hand holding onto the grab handle trying to stay together with your kayak.

Let's analyze the different types of handle, their merit, shortcomings and potential dangerous features.

(Explanations to comments at the bottom)

Eco Bezhig:

-great carry handle

-no grab handle

not safe in the surf zone (1)

Mirage grab/carry handle:

-average carry handle (too small)

- dangerous as grab handle in the surf (2)

Guillemont Petrel custom made kayak and handles:

- good anchor for towing

- dangerous handle in the surf (3)

Raider grab and carry handle:

- OK carry handle

- dangerous grab handle in surf (4)

Impex grab handle:

-very good handle for surf (5)

-carry handle is separate (same as Eco Bezhig)

SeaBird carry handle and grab handle (retrofit)

- good carry handle

- excellent grab handle for surf (6)

Valley (VCP) grab/carry handle:

- average carry handle (too small)

- very good surf handle (7)

SKUK (Nigel Dennis)

-one word: brilliant

The simplest design seems to be the best.

There is no chance to get your fingers caught or your wrist injured in the surf.

The stern handle is offset (handle of left) to balance the kayak when carried.

While this handle might look like the obvious solution it took the genius of Nigel Dennis to perfect this simple design.

.

By dangerous I mean:

if the kayak is held by this handle chances are that your wrist or fingers will be injured if the kayak twists/rolls.

Analysis by numbers:

(1) this kayak has no grab handle, only a carry handle. Holding the kayak in the surf by the grab handle there is a good chance of injuring/braking your wrist when the kayak gets rolled by the wave

(2) this grab handle allows for fingers to be slipped between the two ropes of the handle. Documented cases of severed fingers are the result of this type of handle. If the kayak is rolled by the wave possible wrist injury.

(3) this handle is excellent for towing (low centre of gravity that lifts the bow under tow) but is even more dangerous than handle (2). Not be used in surf at all as grab handle.

(4) this handle is soft on the hand for carrying an unloaded kayak but has similar potential of injury as handle (2). Just slightly better because the ropes join at the handle and less of chance of having fingers caught between the lines. Still potential wrist injury when boat rolls.

(5) this handle uses bungee cord as shock absorption when the waves yanks on your holding hand. The cords might still allow finger insertion however the bungee would be softer and less damaging. Not perfect but better than others.

(6) the SeaBird Desisg kayak came only with carry handle (bad); I retrofitted a decent grab handle by drilling the bow and threaded some heavy duty bungee cord. The bungees also have a sleeve that prevents the fingers being inserted between the two lines. Very safe grab handle.

(7) Valley has addressed the risk of severed fingers by sleeving the grab handle lines however the handles are a bit undersized for carrying an empty kayak.

After a few near misses with some of the types of handle described above I now will not hang onto a kayak in the surf that potentially will injure me.

There are some other handles that I have not reviewed yet but I might add them as I will have more photographs to post.

* used under COPYRIGHT ACT 1968 - SECT 41

PS 17JUN. It appears that my observations on the above grab handles have stirred some emotions from loyal kayak owners and manufacturers.
It seems that maybe one kayak manufacturer is prepared to redesign the grab handle on his kayaks.
However, today I had a strange call from a kayak instructor.
He sternly warned me against possible lawsuits from the "offended" kayak manufacturers. I am grateful to him for his concerns for my wellbeing however before posting the above I consulted with my legal advisor and cleared some points.
What I don't share with my concerned instructor is the fear that some individuals have towards manufacturers.
While I can't see any slandering in my review, just observations, I do understand that individuals might have been challenged with their design rationale.
My question is: how would a consumer truly find a non bias review?
I have tried a few times myself but the ones available on forums are often "doctored" or deleted. It seems that is not uncommon to have forum administrators not display an unfavourable review with the fear that an advertiser/sponsor might cancel their support.
I have also noticed that true unbiased reviews are only possible from users that have no ulterior motives.
Come on, how often have you read a review on a website that was just reeking of commission?
Unfortunately there are very few sources out there that are fully independent from any commercial agenda that will give you an honest opinion.
While some might advocate for "if you ain't got nothing nice to say, say nothing at all", I rather believe in an informed consumer.

Danger Eddie surfing Bribie

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North Shore Atlantic_test paddle

Fresh from the Rock&Roll in Umina (premier NSW Sea Kayak Club event) I have come back impressed with the test paddle of the North Shore Atlantic.

While there were many high end sea kayaks to test paddle the only one that I have not tried yet was the Atlantic (many others too but my legs' size would allow me only so many that fit).
The Atlantic could be described as an in-between my Impex Assateague and my Currituck.

The kayak is superbly finished (expected since it's manufactured by Valley) and I really like the two tone "spill" gel coat of the hull. It's not a sticker, it's actually gel coat.


The cockpit fits me a bit snug and if I had to own one (strongly considering) I would drop the seat a fraction to allow my chunky legs fit with a bit of a wiggle.
As is, the cockpit probably suits a medium sized person.
While not as snug fit as a standard Valley cockpit the one of the Atlantic was just a bit roomier but the thigh braces were still very solid and excellently shaped.


The conditions for my test paddle were initially very mild (rather flat sea) that progressively got more bumpy with small sized swell and chop.
Further along there was some rebound from the cliffs and the wind increased to possibly gusts of 20 knots.
The Atlantic tracked relatively well in most conditions without the need of the skeg.
I deployed it only once I encountered following sea.

The kayak was great to edge offering decent initial stability and outstanding secondary stability.
I felt more at ease in the Atlantic than in my Currituck (possibly I am a bit heavy for the Impex...).
I was very pleased with my test paddle of the Atlantic and after a 4 hours paddle in the variety of conditions I now can say that I would recommend that boat.


The hull and deck felt solid (no flex when pushed on with hand) and while the importer (http://www.expeditionkayaks.com/) would not classify it as true expedition boat it just lacks the absolute security that a standard lay up of a Valley or NDK would offer for rock landings.
It certainly feels much stronger than some so called expedition worthy kayaks that I have come across... and the kayak was reasonably easy on the shoulder when carried solo. Way easier than my Valley Nordkapp LV.

If rudderless paddling is your style I think the Atlantic might be worth considering.