SHOP: modifying the stern of a sea kayak

SeaBird Designs NorthSea: stern modified
Of the modification I have done to my kayaks, this one certainly was the most daunting one: modify the hull!
In my early days of paddling I quickly understood that the shape of a hull in a kayak is detrimental to its handling.
While kayak designers often spend years perfecting the hull shape I don't always find their designs perfect.
I have very little knowledge in naval engineering (read: about zero) but I can feel when a kayak is not performing the way I desire.
My first attempt to fix a kayak that was in my opinion "too loose" was simple: I added a little fin (fixed skeg) to the stern. The kayak improved dramatically.
Apparently modelled on a Nordkapp hull (probably an early version) the stern on the Arctic Raider seems to be cut away more than the current hulls on the VCP Nordkapps.
The Arctic Raider is designed to be paddled with a rudder.There is less keel on the stern.
The Arctic Raider weathercocks really strongly when the rudder is not deployed (like when surfing).

Arctic Raider
Adding the fin helped to the stern from laterally drifting when windy stabilizing the stern.
On my Seabird Designs NorthSea carbon/Kevlar core sea kayak I had the opposite problem: the boat leecocks.

SeaBird Designs NorthSea before the mods
Originally designed to be used with a rudder I removed it and installed a skeg.
The NoprthSea paddled very neutral in low winds but became a bit of a handful in high winds.
Above 20 knots the bow will turn downwind and it was hard to maneuvre.
However the kayak will surf very well: no broaching there.
I moved the seat forward and that changed the trim a bit and made it OK to paddle.
Maneuverability however was still slow: edging the kayak would not release the deep keel line in the stern.
I finally decided to modify the hull.
How much should I modify my stern?.... hard to say/quantify.
I worked out a rough estimate (modelling it on the design of my other kayaks) and marked the stern with tape.

Once I was confident that the cut line would be appropriate I fired up my Dremel tool and took the plunge: hacked into the hull.

It took only a few minutes to cut away the section from the stern.

I made sure that both sides were symmetrical and cut even.

I then cleaned all the dust and any possible salt residues from the surface inside the hull to make sure my epoxy glue would stick to the existing surface.
I mixed up some West System 105 resin/207 UV stabilized hardener mix, tinted it to match the hull color and added microfibre to the consistency of peanut butter.
I generously filled the gap that I created by cutting of the stern with this epoxy mix.
I used tape to reduce the gap: squeezed the hull sides by hand and applied tape to hold the new shape. Surprisingly there was not a lot of tension on the tape.

Once the epoxy glue cured (overnight) I removed the tape and filled the remaining gaps (left by the tape area) with more epoxy mix.
Shaping the final fine keel line was relatively easy with some sand paper.
A smooth finished was achieved with a last coat of clear 105/207 mix.
PIC to come
I tested the new stern shape of my SeaBird kayak over the weekend.
The wind was ideal (up to) 20 knots and the kayak was lightly loaded.
I could definitely feel the stern being more loose now.
In beam winds it finally would weathercock slightly.
I paddled along a Norkapp LV and about the same amount of skeg was needed to correct weathercocking.
While I had no chance yet to test the kayak fully unloaded (I had about 20 Kg of gear with me over the weekend) it appears now to be handling much more like my other British style kayaks.

Sea kayak grab handles

source *: http://www.kayaking.com.au/brochurefiles/Ocean.pdf
A sea kayak to be safe must have grab handles.

Just like its perimeter lines, the grab handles are used to hold onto the kayak when out of the boat.

While perimeter lines are essential to perform an assisted rescue and vital for hanging onto your vessel in rough waters, the grab handles perform also other duties.

They are needed in towing situations but most often are used by the paddler in a wet exit in the surf zone.

When paddling in ocean conditions chances are you might need to land on a beach where surf is encountered. Most paddlers have been dumped at some stage out of their kayak (some more than others) and probably had to hang onto the boat to prevent their vessel being smashed onto shore by the following waves.

The best location to hold onto your kayak is the bow or stern where you can point the vessel into the incoming force of the wave and minimize the impact (less surface area).

Unfortunately not all kayaks have stern grab handles because of rudders.

The waves don't even have to be that big to surf your kayak away from you if not held tight.

Often the wave will twist your kayak when you hanging onto it by the grab handle.

Most likely you will have your full hand holding onto the grab handle trying to stay together with your kayak.

Let's analyze the different types of handle, their merit, shortcomings and potential dangerous features.

(Explanations to comments at the bottom)

Eco Bezhig:

-great carry handle

-no grab handle

not safe in the surf zone (1)

Mirage grab/carry handle:

-average carry handle (too small)

- dangerous as grab handle in the surf (2)

Guillemont Petrel custom made kayak and handles:

- good anchor for towing

- dangerous handle in the surf (3)

Raider grab and carry handle:

- OK carry handle

- dangerous grab handle in surf (4)

Impex grab handle:

-very good handle for surf (5)

-carry handle is separate (same as Eco Bezhig)

SeaBird carry handle and grab handle (retrofit)

- good carry handle

- excellent grab handle for surf (6)

Valley (VCP) grab/carry handle:

- average carry handle (too small)

- very good surf handle (7)

SKUK (Nigel Dennis)

-one word: brilliant

The simplest design seems to be the best.

There is no chance to get your fingers caught or your wrist injured in the surf.

The stern handle is offset (handle of left) to balance the kayak when carried.

While this handle might look like the obvious solution it took the genius of Nigel Dennis to perfect this simple design.

.

By dangerous I mean:

if the kayak is held by this handle chances are that your wrist or fingers will be injured if the kayak twists/rolls.

Analysis by numbers:

(1) this kayak has no grab handle, only a carry handle. Holding the kayak in the surf by the grab handle there is a good chance of injuring/braking your wrist when the kayak gets rolled by the wave

(2) this grab handle allows for fingers to be slipped between the two ropes of the handle. Documented cases of severed fingers are the result of this type of handle. If the kayak is rolled by the wave possible wrist injury.

(3) this handle is excellent for towing (low centre of gravity that lifts the bow under tow) but is even more dangerous than handle (2). Not be used in surf at all as grab handle.

(4) this handle is soft on the hand for carrying an unloaded kayak but has similar potential of injury as handle (2). Just slightly better because the ropes join at the handle and less of chance of having fingers caught between the lines. Still potential wrist injury when boat rolls.

(5) this handle uses bungee cord as shock absorption when the waves yanks on your holding hand. The cords might still allow finger insertion however the bungee would be softer and less damaging. Not perfect but better than others.

(6) the SeaBird Desisg kayak came only with carry handle (bad); I retrofitted a decent grab handle by drilling the bow and threaded some heavy duty bungee cord. The bungees also have a sleeve that prevents the fingers being inserted between the two lines. Very safe grab handle.

(7) Valley has addressed the risk of severed fingers by sleeving the grab handle lines however the handles are a bit undersized for carrying an empty kayak.

After a few near misses with some of the types of handle described above I now will not hang onto a kayak in the surf that potentially will injure me.

There are some other handles that I have not reviewed yet but I might add them as I will have more photographs to post.

* used under COPYRIGHT ACT 1968 - SECT 41

PS 17JUN. It appears that my observations on the above grab handles have stirred some emotions from loyal kayak owners and manufacturers.
It seems that maybe one kayak manufacturer is prepared to redesign the grab handle on his kayaks.
However, today I had a strange call from a kayak instructor.
He sternly warned me against possible lawsuits from the "offended" kayak manufacturers. I am grateful to him for his concerns for my wellbeing however before posting the above I consulted with my legal advisor and cleared some points.
What I don't share with my concerned instructor is the fear that some individuals have towards manufacturers.
While I can't see any slandering in my review, just observations, I do understand that individuals might have been challenged with their design rationale.
My question is: how would a consumer truly find a non bias review?
I have tried a few times myself but the ones available on forums are often "doctored" or deleted. It seems that is not uncommon to have forum administrators not display an unfavourable review with the fear that an advertiser/sponsor might cancel their support.
I have also noticed that true unbiased reviews are only possible from users that have no ulterior motives.
Come on, how often have you read a review on a website that was just reeking of commission?
Unfortunately there are very few sources out there that are fully independent from any commercial agenda that will give you an honest opinion.
While some might advocate for "if you ain't got nothing nice to say, say nothing at all", I rather believe in an informed consumer.