A short video on Greenland rolling in South-East Queensland starring Stika and Toddy.
This video is under license from Geggamoja Industries
Camera and rolling: Greg and Moira Schwarz (additional footage by Tess Dodd)
Paddles: Greg Schwarz custom laminated hollow-core Western Red Cedar
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24 January 2012
17 January 2012
VIDEO: sailing with Flat Earth Code ZERO kayak sail
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After some initial testing in November with Flat Earth Code ZERO sea kayak sail, over the Xmas break the weather presented some good opportunities for sailing in winds of max 20-25 knots.
After some initial testing in November with Flat Earth Code ZERO sea kayak sail, over the Xmas break the weather presented some good opportunities for sailing in winds of max 20-25 knots.
I mounted the Code Zero onto a skegged kayak of British style design and despite finding that the kayak does lee cock at low speeds it was easy to sail because the hull has a fair amount of initial stability.
In saying that, any kayak of mine once is underway with a sail I find that she increases its stability: the sail seems to prevent the port to starboard wobbles in a textured sea.
The slightly increased surface area of the Code ZERO was noticeable and the kayak picked up more speed over wind waves in lighter breezes (10 knots).
In higher winds there were moments when the kayak really started to hum and the deployed skeg was “singing” when surfed down the waves.
VIDEO: select 720p if you have fast Internet connection
Eventually, on the second day of sailing, the wind became a bit too strong for me to handle the full sized sail; it was time to try the reefing feature (in the video at 2:25).
Again, I had no opportunity this time to test the kayak’s speed with hard facts, but I didn’t think that the kayak was travelling through the water any slower than with the full sail.
Not sure why this perceived speed but could it be that I was reaching hull speed with either size sail? I understand that a kayak can only travel so fast at a given range of propulsion; to go any faster much more energy is needed and maybe the sail at full size could not bring the hull on a plane?
I would like to hear if my rationale makes sense.Disclaimer: Flat Earth Sails has supplied me with this test Code ZERO sail. Gnarlydog News product review policy can be viewed here
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12 January 2012
Gnarlydog News product review policy
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After a recent post on Gnarlydog News where some commentators questioned my integrity with my reviews on this blog as true independent non commercial articles I think it's time that I clearly explain my policy.
"Mike" accused me (in the comments section here) of writing articles for this blog as commissioned paid reviews.
While GDN has now passed the 200th post with a variety of articles spanning from simple images, videos, observations, opinion and criticism I also include reviews of gear that I use.
I would like to stress the point here on the "gear that I use".
As the popularity of GDN increased over the years readership now reaches in hundreds of page loads per day. Some manufactures regularly visit my pages for ideas and to see what does not work for me; I guess, with my posts sometimes I offer an indirect feedback to them.
At the same time some manufacturers also notice my efforts in describing and researching a product, which I often accompany with non-stock images and videos of mine.
I have been approached several times by non-kayak related companies asking me to review some of their goods. After a brief discussion with the business interested in my blog I realized that they were after a favorable review of products that do not interest me personally. I politely decline their offer explaining that I only would consider items that I would personally use.
I also have been asked to promote businesses and events but, since I was not personally involved with those, I declined again.
Occasionally there is a manufacturer that offers me a product that I would like to try. I engage with the supplier and analyze the product before I commit and ask them to send me a sample. I understand that small businesses are on a tight budget and can not afford to simply send samples to anybody therefore, if the product that they offer appears to be of a style and design that does not agree with my philosophy (I like things simple, compact and sturdy) I again decline their offer.
Now, there are some products that I really like and occasionally I will ask the manufacturer to supply me with a sample. Often they decline my request.
There are cases too where the manufacturer engages in a healthy conversation with me about the design of their product before they offer me any samples. This is the case with Northern Light Paddles.
Paul had a lengthy exchange of emails with me before he finally decided to take the risk to supply me with his paddles. He knew that if I didn't find his paddles to my liking there was a risk I would give them an unfavorable review. Just like with Flat Earth Kayak sails, where initially there were some minor design flaws, the conversation with Mick was open. He looked at my findings and he improved his product.
I now use Flat Earth Sails exclusively finding them superior to my design.
With Northern Light paddles I have found a product that is unique and fits my needs very well.
At no stage was I ever paid to review any product, never have.
I will accept products for review as well as I will review items that I buy in a retail shop, full price.
I also occasionally review items that are loaned to me but only if I personally I am interested in.
So, if you, the reader, feel that I have breached your trust with the honesty in my reviews, I ask you to stop reading this blog.
On the other hand I am sure that many will find my policy acceptable to be still called independent non-commercial review.
.
After a recent post on Gnarlydog News where some commentators questioned my integrity with my reviews on this blog as true independent non commercial articles I think it's time that I clearly explain my policy.
"Mike" accused me (in the comments section here) of writing articles for this blog as commissioned paid reviews.
While GDN has now passed the 200th post with a variety of articles spanning from simple images, videos, observations, opinion and criticism I also include reviews of gear that I use.
I would like to stress the point here on the "gear that I use".
As the popularity of GDN increased over the years readership now reaches in hundreds of page loads per day. Some manufactures regularly visit my pages for ideas and to see what does not work for me; I guess, with my posts sometimes I offer an indirect feedback to them.
At the same time some manufacturers also notice my efforts in describing and researching a product, which I often accompany with non-stock images and videos of mine.
I have been approached several times by non-kayak related companies asking me to review some of their goods. After a brief discussion with the business interested in my blog I realized that they were after a favorable review of products that do not interest me personally. I politely decline their offer explaining that I only would consider items that I would personally use.
I also have been asked to promote businesses and events but, since I was not personally involved with those, I declined again.
Occasionally there is a manufacturer that offers me a product that I would like to try. I engage with the supplier and analyze the product before I commit and ask them to send me a sample. I understand that small businesses are on a tight budget and can not afford to simply send samples to anybody therefore, if the product that they offer appears to be of a style and design that does not agree with my philosophy (I like things simple, compact and sturdy) I again decline their offer.
Now, there are some products that I really like and occasionally I will ask the manufacturer to supply me with a sample. Often they decline my request.
There are cases too where the manufacturer engages in a healthy conversation with me about the design of their product before they offer me any samples. This is the case with Northern Light Paddles.
Paul had a lengthy exchange of emails with me before he finally decided to take the risk to supply me with his paddles. He knew that if I didn't find his paddles to my liking there was a risk I would give them an unfavorable review. Just like with Flat Earth Kayak sails, where initially there were some minor design flaws, the conversation with Mick was open. He looked at my findings and he improved his product.
I now use Flat Earth Sails exclusively finding them superior to my design.
With Northern Light paddles I have found a product that is unique and fits my needs very well.
At no stage was I ever paid to review any product, never have.
I will accept products for review as well as I will review items that I buy in a retail shop, full price.
I also occasionally review items that are loaned to me but only if I personally I am interested in.
So, if you, the reader, feel that I have breached your trust with the honesty in my reviews, I ask you to stop reading this blog.
On the other hand I am sure that many will find my policy acceptable to be still called independent non-commercial review.
.
10 January 2012
SHOP: sail mast base on Valley kayak
Following Jim's set up for a sail mast base on a Valley sea kayak utilizing the compass recess, I want to detail here a fitting that requires no additional holes drilled to the deck.
On the Valley decks there is usually a fitting that holds bungee cords in place typically used for stowing split paddles on the foredeck.
I have a hard time placing a paddle under those bungee cords and prefer the paddle parks.
Actually these days I prefer to carry a Greenland style storm paddle on the rear deck.
So, that fitting on the deck is the perfect anchor for a sail mast base.
I remove the fitting and grease up the cavity/recess with several layers of mold release. I find that a final layer of PVA mold release works best before I fill the cavity with epoxy paste (I mix epoxy, microfibre and filler to the consistency of peanut butter).
Working-in the paste ensures that there are no air bubbles. I build the base high sitting proud of the deck.
I add a layer or two of fibreglass to keep the epoxy paste from running too much
A final layer of kitchen cling wrap to be able to shape the paste into a neat bump and I place a square object to create a flat surface.
Once the epoxy cures overnight I pry the fitting out of the mold and smooth it with sandpaper. There will be a dimple where the original bolt held the deck fitting: that's where I drill through the sail base and countersink the top to accept a new longer bolt of the same thread pitch (M6, metric). I cover the mast base with a layer of carbon (just for looks) and UV stable epoxy (West System 105/207). I make sure I push the countersunk area down to maintain the recess for the bolt's head. Often I place a small greased-up plastic cap just of the right size with a tiny weight on it to keep the wet carbon cloth in place.
Once cured, I drill through the last thin carbon layer to insert the central bolt.
The base of the mast is carefully positioned onto the carbon base and holes drilled to accept the fasteners.
A recess is needed for the nuts underside making sure they clear the deck.
I use M4 stainless steel Allen key button head fasteners and nylock nuts.
The plastic red base is bolted to the carbon base which in term is secured to the original Valley factory anchor on deck.
The base does not rotate because of the recess. No holes were drilled into the deck for the mast base but I still needed to create some recessed anchors for the mast stays.
I also reinforced the underdeck area with a rib fabricated from foam-core, fibreglass, carbon and epoxy under the mast base since the deck is too flexible.
However I discovered that this location is not ideal on all Valley decks. The deck fitting is not located in the same place on the different model Valleys. One of my Valley kayaks tends to leecock when paddled at slow speeds.
Just like when I used to windsurf, where I tilted the mast back to turn into the wind, I have now tilted the mast of my Flat Earth Sail backwards to give the kayak a neutral direction in beam winds.
Video of sailing with this kayak and the new Code ZERO Flat Earth Sail coming soon.
.
On the Valley decks there is usually a fitting that holds bungee cords in place typically used for stowing split paddles on the foredeck.
I have a hard time placing a paddle under those bungee cords and prefer the paddle parks.
Actually these days I prefer to carry a Greenland style storm paddle on the rear deck.
So, that fitting on the deck is the perfect anchor for a sail mast base.
I remove the fitting and grease up the cavity/recess with several layers of mold release. I find that a final layer of PVA mold release works best before I fill the cavity with epoxy paste (I mix epoxy, microfibre and filler to the consistency of peanut butter).
Working-in the paste ensures that there are no air bubbles. I build the base high sitting proud of the deck.
I add a layer or two of fibreglass to keep the epoxy paste from running too much
A final layer of kitchen cling wrap to be able to shape the paste into a neat bump and I place a square object to create a flat surface.
Once the epoxy cures overnight I pry the fitting out of the mold and smooth it with sandpaper. There will be a dimple where the original bolt held the deck fitting: that's where I drill through the sail base and countersink the top to accept a new longer bolt of the same thread pitch (M6, metric). I cover the mast base with a layer of carbon (just for looks) and UV stable epoxy (West System 105/207). I make sure I push the countersunk area down to maintain the recess for the bolt's head. Often I place a small greased-up plastic cap just of the right size with a tiny weight on it to keep the wet carbon cloth in place.
Once cured, I drill through the last thin carbon layer to insert the central bolt.
The base of the mast is carefully positioned onto the carbon base and holes drilled to accept the fasteners.
A recess is needed for the nuts underside making sure they clear the deck.
I use M4 stainless steel Allen key button head fasteners and nylock nuts.
The plastic red base is bolted to the carbon base which in term is secured to the original Valley factory anchor on deck.
The base does not rotate because of the recess. No holes were drilled into the deck for the mast base but I still needed to create some recessed anchors for the mast stays.
I also reinforced the underdeck area with a rib fabricated from foam-core, fibreglass, carbon and epoxy under the mast base since the deck is too flexible.
However I discovered that this location is not ideal on all Valley decks. The deck fitting is not located in the same place on the different model Valleys. One of my Valley kayaks tends to leecock when paddled at slow speeds.
Just like when I used to windsurf, where I tilted the mast back to turn into the wind, I have now tilted the mast of my Flat Earth Sail backwards to give the kayak a neutral direction in beam winds.
Video of sailing with this kayak and the new Code ZERO Flat Earth Sail coming soon.
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05 January 2012
REVIEW: Northern Light Aleut carbon sectional paddle
Paul from Northern Light Paddles sent me a while ago a couple of Aleut sectional carbon paddles. He asked me to test them in the surf and report of my findings.
I have previously used the Aleut several times in flat seas with a maximum of a 1' wind waves but on NewYear’s Eve I took it to a familiar surfing place. Finally I had the opportunity to give the Aleut paddle a go in the rough water.
The waves were small but the tidal flow was still running in at a decent pace which made hard work to paddle out and catch a couple of good runners. I was in a new kayak and I was still finding the particular traits of that rather stable British boat which paddles very differently than my hard chined low volume Zegul520.
The Aleut feels different than my Greenland Northern Light paddle and also different than my Western Red Cedar Vanstix. At a close inspection I notice that “back side” is not really flat (there is a general consensus that the flat side of the paddle is the non power face, but nobody knows for sure how the Aleuts used to orient their paddles) . On the blade, closer to the loom, the surface is actually concave creating a gentle spoon. Not as drastic as on a true wing paddle the NLP Aleut does however favour a wing style motion to get the most efficient stroke.
"back side" of the blade
With a Greenland paddle I tend to cant the blade and create “lift” and a clean quiet stroke; with the NLP Aleut I don’t cant.
I tried paddling both sides: power face and back side; interestingly enough the paddle works both ways. With the ridged side as powerface the paddle feels stable with no flutter but I found that my stroke was not totally silent; I was introducing air in my catch. The paddle is easy to use, somehow easier than the GP if a beginner had to use it for the first time since no canting is required.
Paul suggested that I try also the backside as powerface.
Reluctantly I inverted the paddle assuming it will flutter similarly to my Vanstix (not designed to be paddled inverted). Initially the paddle felt a bit odd as it didn’t have the same gentle entry of a canted GP. I adjusted my stroke to a more square catch and pushed diagonally outwards, away from the hull. I didn’t measure my speed with a GPS (I am a low-tech paddler) but I am sure there was more resistance at the blade than with a GP. And there should be: the concave shape of the blade prevents water from “spilling” and anchors the blade firmly into the water. There is also more surface on that blade resulting in more power generated for the same stroke. If I maintained the same cadence as with a GP I felt that I was gaining more ground err.. water.
Theoretically this Aleut paddle would suit surfing better where powerful strokes are needed to quickly accelerate the kayak down the face of the wave.
I guess it worked. Watch the video:
select 360P if you have slow Internet connection
Otherwise the Aleut offered me the same amount of support that I like when bracing a broached kayak. Rolling was solid but I find that the GP sculls easier since it has finer edges and a lower cross-section profile. The Aleut is longer than my GP therefore presents more surface in the water. The loom is the same as on the GP (just longer): sectional, oval/squared-off and inserts into the blades in the same way utilizing stainless steel fasteners to secure the 3 sections.
Since the asymmetrical blade (from power face to back side) is also offset it acts as a cam in your hand. The power face sits easier in the hand and when the blade is inverted I had to grip the loom just a bit stronger. I find the shoulder transition between loom and blade gentle on the powerface side but when I use the paddle inverted it is more noticeable: the blade finishes more abruptly against my hand and the shoulder is sharper.
If I had to pick one paddle only I would prefer to own the GP as an all-round paddle and while I feel the Aleut offers more surface, it reminds more of a typical resistance of a Euro paddle.
I have been paddling traditional paddles for too long to be able to say with certainty that the Aleut would be an excellent transition paddle for somebody wanting to venture into the world of skinny paddles but fearing they lack power. For surf work maybe the Aleut could have an advantage but I honestly have to give it more time and testing before I can be sure of that.
I have been appointed as Australian East Coast ambassador for Northern Lights paddles. I have a selection of Greenland and Aleut sectional paddles to try. Feel free to contact me at gnarlydognews(at)gmail.com for a demo paddle.
.
I have previously used the Aleut several times in flat seas with a maximum of a 1' wind waves but on NewYear’s Eve I took it to a familiar surfing place. Finally I had the opportunity to give the Aleut paddle a go in the rough water.
The waves were small but the tidal flow was still running in at a decent pace which made hard work to paddle out and catch a couple of good runners. I was in a new kayak and I was still finding the particular traits of that rather stable British boat which paddles very differently than my hard chined low volume Zegul520.
The Aleut feels different than my Greenland Northern Light paddle and also different than my Western Red Cedar Vanstix. At a close inspection I notice that “back side” is not really flat (there is a general consensus that the flat side of the paddle is the non power face, but nobody knows for sure how the Aleuts used to orient their paddles) . On the blade, closer to the loom, the surface is actually concave creating a gentle spoon. Not as drastic as on a true wing paddle the NLP Aleut does however favour a wing style motion to get the most efficient stroke.
"back side" of the blade
With a Greenland paddle I tend to cant the blade and create “lift” and a clean quiet stroke; with the NLP Aleut I don’t cant.
I tried paddling both sides: power face and back side; interestingly enough the paddle works both ways. With the ridged side as powerface the paddle feels stable with no flutter but I found that my stroke was not totally silent; I was introducing air in my catch. The paddle is easy to use, somehow easier than the GP if a beginner had to use it for the first time since no canting is required.
Paul suggested that I try also the backside as powerface.
Reluctantly I inverted the paddle assuming it will flutter similarly to my Vanstix (not designed to be paddled inverted). Initially the paddle felt a bit odd as it didn’t have the same gentle entry of a canted GP. I adjusted my stroke to a more square catch and pushed diagonally outwards, away from the hull. I didn’t measure my speed with a GPS (I am a low-tech paddler) but I am sure there was more resistance at the blade than with a GP. And there should be: the concave shape of the blade prevents water from “spilling” and anchors the blade firmly into the water. There is also more surface on that blade resulting in more power generated for the same stroke. If I maintained the same cadence as with a GP I felt that I was gaining more ground err.. water.
Theoretically this Aleut paddle would suit surfing better where powerful strokes are needed to quickly accelerate the kayak down the face of the wave.
I guess it worked. Watch the video:
select 360P if you have slow Internet connection
Otherwise the Aleut offered me the same amount of support that I like when bracing a broached kayak. Rolling was solid but I find that the GP sculls easier since it has finer edges and a lower cross-section profile. The Aleut is longer than my GP therefore presents more surface in the water. The loom is the same as on the GP (just longer): sectional, oval/squared-off and inserts into the blades in the same way utilizing stainless steel fasteners to secure the 3 sections.
Since the asymmetrical blade (from power face to back side) is also offset it acts as a cam in your hand. The power face sits easier in the hand and when the blade is inverted I had to grip the loom just a bit stronger. I find the shoulder transition between loom and blade gentle on the powerface side but when I use the paddle inverted it is more noticeable: the blade finishes more abruptly against my hand and the shoulder is sharper.
If I had to pick one paddle only I would prefer to own the GP as an all-round paddle and while I feel the Aleut offers more surface, it reminds more of a typical resistance of a Euro paddle.
I have been paddling traditional paddles for too long to be able to say with certainty that the Aleut would be an excellent transition paddle for somebody wanting to venture into the world of skinny paddles but fearing they lack power. For surf work maybe the Aleut could have an advantage but I honestly have to give it more time and testing before I can be sure of that.
I have been appointed as Australian East Coast ambassador for Northern Lights paddles. I have a selection of Greenland and Aleut sectional paddles to try. Feel free to contact me at gnarlydognews(at)gmail.com for a demo paddle.
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30 December 2011
PHOTO: surfing with Flat Earth Code ZERO sail
I finally had the opportunity to give the new prototype Flat Earth Code Zero sail a decent test.
I had the perfect conditions: 15 knots of tail wind on a opposing tidal flow that created short waves.
The steep waves kept me on an edge while trying to manoeuvre the kayak and prevent myself from being dunked. A few very fast braces were necessary every so often when the kayak tried to broach. Eventually I got tired but the smile on my face lasted for hours.
Tail wind makes for easy sea kayak surfing with the new Code Zero Flat Earth sail
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I had the perfect conditions: 15 knots of tail wind on a opposing tidal flow that created short waves.
The steep waves kept me on an edge while trying to manoeuvre the kayak and prevent myself from being dunked. A few very fast braces were necessary every so often when the kayak tried to broach. Eventually I got tired but the smile on my face lasted for hours.
Tail wind makes for easy sea kayak surfing with the new Code Zero Flat Earth sail
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21 December 2011
GEAR: Greenland paddle_The Hammerhead™
Guest article by Greg Schwarz.
Because I carry a "Storm paddle" as my spare, I like to practice with it quite often so it's not a problem should I really need it one day.
I now enjoy the sliding stroke so much that sometimes I forget that I'm using the storm paddle. This, however, can be a problem (in my case anyway) if I suddenly need to brace, and I extend the paddle only to find my inboard hand empty! ( a butterfly roll is a handy skill to have here!)
I decided that if I made the end armour wider than the blade, I would have a built in "stop" to let me know that I had reached the end. Hydrodynamics is a pet interest of mine, so it appealed to me to shape the armour to optimise it's "end plate" effect, ie:- To help prevent the loss of water that could be used for lift, instead of escaping over the tip. This is by no means a new concept! Greenlanders, for centuries have been putting enlarged tips of bone and ivory on their paddles to protect the timber when smashing ice etc. But was that it's only purpose? As these people relied on their equipment for their survival, I'm inclined to think there is more to it. We now know that the Greenland paddle can be as efficient as a modern wing paddle when used correctly. As the son of a professional fisherman, I know that nothing is kept onboard that is not functional. So why the enlarged tips on some paddles ?….I decided to experiment.
I built a new storm paddle with widened tips. Although it was only 6.5mm (1/4") wider overall than the blade, it felt very smooth through the water. Everyone who tried the paddle made this comment unsolicited. It also appeared to give more lift, but this paddle had 1.5mm (1/16") finer edges on the blades than my normal blade, was that just the difference?
My paddling mate Steve needed a new paddle so I decided to expand on the theory and make the "flanges" larger, now 16mm (5/8") wider than the blade….We could always trim them down if they didn't work.
Steve likes fine edges on his paddles so I have yet to try this style of end armour on a thick edged blade, however, the paddle feels like it's another step up again in lift. Comparing it with a same sized, conventional paddle of mine, there is definitely an increase in lift and it is very smooth through the water.
My biggest concern was the entry into the water, but it is whisper quiet and again felt smooth. I had keep the tips of the "flange" quite fine for this reason, so I will have to get Steve to refrain from breaking ice with it… a real problem here in S.E. Queensland ;-)
I am keen to try even larger tips now! The sad part is that I now feel, all of my own paddles are obsolete!
last edited 21DEC
.
Because I carry a "Storm paddle" as my spare, I like to practice with it quite often so it's not a problem should I really need it one day.
I now enjoy the sliding stroke so much that sometimes I forget that I'm using the storm paddle. This, however, can be a problem (in my case anyway) if I suddenly need to brace, and I extend the paddle only to find my inboard hand empty! ( a butterfly roll is a handy skill to have here!)
I decided that if I made the end armour wider than the blade, I would have a built in "stop" to let me know that I had reached the end. Hydrodynamics is a pet interest of mine, so it appealed to me to shape the armour to optimise it's "end plate" effect, ie:- To help prevent the loss of water that could be used for lift, instead of escaping over the tip. This is by no means a new concept! Greenlanders, for centuries have been putting enlarged tips of bone and ivory on their paddles to protect the timber when smashing ice etc. But was that it's only purpose? As these people relied on their equipment for their survival, I'm inclined to think there is more to it. We now know that the Greenland paddle can be as efficient as a modern wing paddle when used correctly. As the son of a professional fisherman, I know that nothing is kept onboard that is not functional. So why the enlarged tips on some paddles ?….I decided to experiment.
I built a new storm paddle with widened tips. Although it was only 6.5mm (1/4") wider overall than the blade, it felt very smooth through the water. Everyone who tried the paddle made this comment unsolicited. It also appeared to give more lift, but this paddle had 1.5mm (1/16") finer edges on the blades than my normal blade, was that just the difference?
My paddling mate Steve needed a new paddle so I decided to expand on the theory and make the "flanges" larger, now 16mm (5/8") wider than the blade….We could always trim them down if they didn't work.
Steve likes fine edges on his paddles so I have yet to try this style of end armour on a thick edged blade, however, the paddle feels like it's another step up again in lift. Comparing it with a same sized, conventional paddle of mine, there is definitely an increase in lift and it is very smooth through the water.
My biggest concern was the entry into the water, but it is whisper quiet and again felt smooth. I had keep the tips of the "flange" quite fine for this reason, so I will have to get Steve to refrain from breaking ice with it… a real problem here in S.E. Queensland ;-)
I am keen to try even larger tips now! The sad part is that I now feel, all of my own paddles are obsolete!
last edited 21DEC
.
13 December 2011
GEAR: the invisible paddle.
The latest development in superlight paddles has lead to thin incredible pinnacle of engineering: the Invisible paddle.
Strictly designed for Greenland style rolling it is aimed to the advanced kayaker.
Beginners will find this paddle way too light, unsupportive and downright too difficult to use.
Expert paddlers however will cherish the flexibility that this laminated paddle (according to Helen Wilson) offers. It is also one of the lightest and most compact paddles for air travel.
I am sorry Paul, but your Northern Light paddles have met their match :-)
.
Strictly designed for Greenland style rolling it is aimed to the advanced kayaker.
Beginners will find this paddle way too light, unsupportive and downright too difficult to use.
Expert paddlers however will cherish the flexibility that this laminated paddle (according to Helen Wilson) offers. It is also one of the lightest and most compact paddles for air travel.
I am sorry Paul, but your Northern Light paddles have met their match :-)
.
12 December 2011
SHOP: reefing the Flat Earth Code Zero sail
In a previous post I have reviewed the new Code Zero Flat Earth kayak sail.
It features reefing point to make the sail smaller when the wind is really blowing and a smaller sail is called for.
My solution to reef the sail is simple: two little loops that pull the sail to the mast and reduce the surface area. One drawback: I need somebody to help me with the reefing since I can’t be seated in my cockpit and reach the loops; they are just too far away from me.
Gnarlydog News reader Kris Carlson, a designer from Swansea MA, USA has designed a relatively simple way to reef the Code Zero sail when paddling solo.
Most of his sea kayaking is usually alone and he wants to have the ability to safely reduce the surface area when seated in his kayak.
He sent me some drawings and explanation of his idea.
Here is his concept
Above is a composite image of his concept using Ronstan superlight plastic blocks.
Below are the itemized components from Kris:
1. Upper Reinforced Grommet in Sail
2. Upper Double Reef Block
3. Upper Webbing Strap
4. Lower Reinforced Grommet in Sail
5. Lower Reefing Block
6. Lower Webbing Strap
7. Reef System Downhaul Block
8. Mast Base Turning Block
9. Bullseye
10. Clamcleat
Installation:
Webbing straps (3,6) need to be sewn onto the mast sleeve of the sail. A double block (2) needs to be lashed to the upper webbing strap. A block (5) needs to be lashed to the lower webbing strap. A block (8) needs to be lashed to the base of the mast. A bullseye (9) needs to be installed near the edge of the deck to guide the line down the side of the boat. A Clamcleat (10) needs to be installed with-in arms-length of the cockpit. Tie or splice block (7) to the lower reef line. Tie a stopper knot at the end of the upper reef line and pull it through the upper sail grommet (1). Run line through the first sheave on block (2). Run line through block (7). Run line through the second sheave on block (2). Run line down through block (5). Feed line through lower grommet (4) and tie a stopper knot. Feed the lower reef line (now attached to the upper line via block 7) through the mast base block (8). Feed the line through the bullseye (9). Run the line back to the Clamcleat (10) and tie a stopper knot.
Use:
When the reef line passing through the Clamcleat (10) is pulled towards the cockpit, the downhaul block (7) will evenly pull the upper reef line loop towards the deck and collapse the sail up against the mast.
Kris’ concept could be modified to have the Clamcleat removed from the deck and replaced with a suitable cleat on the end of the boom. This variation however might require to have the sail mast lowered (like when stowed) since reefing the sail lifts the boom higher away from the operator. Also, the Ronstan blocks could be replaced by simple stainless steeel rings although some increased friction might occur on the reefing line.
I am sure that some will find this reefing concept too complicated but I am very thankful to Kris for his contribution to this blog; he has find a solution for solo sailors that want to use the reefing on the FEKS Code Zero sails.
.
It features reefing point to make the sail smaller when the wind is really blowing and a smaller sail is called for.
My solution to reef the sail is simple: two little loops that pull the sail to the mast and reduce the surface area. One drawback: I need somebody to help me with the reefing since I can’t be seated in my cockpit and reach the loops; they are just too far away from me.
Gnarlydog News reader Kris Carlson, a designer from Swansea MA, USA has designed a relatively simple way to reef the Code Zero sail when paddling solo.
Most of his sea kayaking is usually alone and he wants to have the ability to safely reduce the surface area when seated in his kayak.
He sent me some drawings and explanation of his idea.
Here is his concept
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| click on image to enlarge |
Above is a composite image of his concept using Ronstan superlight plastic blocks.
Below are the itemized components from Kris:
1. Upper Reinforced Grommet in Sail
2. Upper Double Reef Block
3. Upper Webbing Strap
4. Lower Reinforced Grommet in Sail
5. Lower Reefing Block
6. Lower Webbing Strap
7. Reef System Downhaul Block
8. Mast Base Turning Block
9. Bullseye
10. Clamcleat
Installation:
Webbing straps (3,6) need to be sewn onto the mast sleeve of the sail. A double block (2) needs to be lashed to the upper webbing strap. A block (5) needs to be lashed to the lower webbing strap. A block (8) needs to be lashed to the base of the mast. A bullseye (9) needs to be installed near the edge of the deck to guide the line down the side of the boat. A Clamcleat (10) needs to be installed with-in arms-length of the cockpit. Tie or splice block (7) to the lower reef line. Tie a stopper knot at the end of the upper reef line and pull it through the upper sail grommet (1). Run line through the first sheave on block (2). Run line through block (7). Run line through the second sheave on block (2). Run line down through block (5). Feed line through lower grommet (4) and tie a stopper knot. Feed the lower reef line (now attached to the upper line via block 7) through the mast base block (8). Feed the line through the bullseye (9). Run the line back to the Clamcleat (10) and tie a stopper knot.
Use:
When the reef line passing through the Clamcleat (10) is pulled towards the cockpit, the downhaul block (7) will evenly pull the upper reef line loop towards the deck and collapse the sail up against the mast.
Kris’ concept could be modified to have the Clamcleat removed from the deck and replaced with a suitable cleat on the end of the boom. This variation however might require to have the sail mast lowered (like when stowed) since reefing the sail lifts the boom higher away from the operator. Also, the Ronstan blocks could be replaced by simple stainless steeel rings although some increased friction might occur on the reefing line.
I am sure that some will find this reefing concept too complicated but I am very thankful to Kris for his contribution to this blog; he has find a solution for solo sailors that want to use the reefing on the FEKS Code Zero sails.
.
01 December 2011
SHOP: removable sail rigging
In my previous post I have detailed how I install cat rigged style sails (Flat Earth Sails for example) onto the deck of my kayaks.
The anchors, cleats and mast base are permanently secured to the deck and require several holes to be drilled through the fibreglass deck to have the bolts secure the items.
Some people cringe at the idea of drilling holes in a brand new kayak especially when experimenting with equipment that they are not familiar with.
My early sail rigs had the cleats mounted too close to where my hand would occasionally brush when paddling in a low angle style.
A few hits of the knuckles on the sharp edges of the cleat made me relocate them and plug the holes left behind by the fasteners.
My friend Jim has not done a lot of kayak sailing before and was unsure if he would like it on his Nordkapp LV.
He decided to minimize the damage that an ill fitting sail rig would do to the deck and devised a system that would keep his deck clean when he did not want to use a sail.
For the mast he used the existing recess where normally a 70P compass would be fitted. He fabricated a base out of fibreglass that has the identical hole location as a compass. He does not use that type of compass but he believes the recess and the complex fibreglass profile of the deck in that area is a very solid location for the mast base. He did not need to reinforce the deck since no flex is detected when the sail is deployed, even in heavy winds.
Jim had to drill holes for the stay anchors; unfortunately a Nordkapp LV does not have perimeter-line anchors suitably located to double as stay anchors.
The rest of the cleats and pulleys (blocks) are mounted on a custom made piece of fibreglass that contours the deck of the kayak.
He simply waxed the deck of his kayak with mould release compound (even grease would work in a pinch) and laid up several layers of glass cloth and resin. Once the laminate cured he padded the underside with a thin layer of closed cell foam to prevent scuffing of the deck and installed the necessary hardware to secure the uphaul and trim the main sheet. He used sections of stainless steel welding rods embedded into the laminate to create guides for his lines but stainless steel saddles could be used as alternative.
His "plate" is held back by a thin line that loops around the coaming of the kayak, and in the front, under the deck bungee cord. The coaming line takes most of the load, the front bungee just keeps the plate close to the deck.
Jim's system can be removed in seconds when he does not use his sail. The base for the mast remains attached up front but there are no cleats and pulleys to clutter his deck.
PS 02DEC
Owen Walton has sent me these images of his sail set up.
It requires one more stay (back stay) but the sail can rotate freely 360 degrees.
The plastic cleats are low profile.
The anchors, cleats and mast base are permanently secured to the deck and require several holes to be drilled through the fibreglass deck to have the bolts secure the items.
Some people cringe at the idea of drilling holes in a brand new kayak especially when experimenting with equipment that they are not familiar with.
My early sail rigs had the cleats mounted too close to where my hand would occasionally brush when paddling in a low angle style.
A few hits of the knuckles on the sharp edges of the cleat made me relocate them and plug the holes left behind by the fasteners.
My friend Jim has not done a lot of kayak sailing before and was unsure if he would like it on his Nordkapp LV.
He decided to minimize the damage that an ill fitting sail rig would do to the deck and devised a system that would keep his deck clean when he did not want to use a sail.
For the mast he used the existing recess where normally a 70P compass would be fitted. He fabricated a base out of fibreglass that has the identical hole location as a compass. He does not use that type of compass but he believes the recess and the complex fibreglass profile of the deck in that area is a very solid location for the mast base. He did not need to reinforce the deck since no flex is detected when the sail is deployed, even in heavy winds.
Jim had to drill holes for the stay anchors; unfortunately a Nordkapp LV does not have perimeter-line anchors suitably located to double as stay anchors.
The rest of the cleats and pulleys (blocks) are mounted on a custom made piece of fibreglass that contours the deck of the kayak.
He simply waxed the deck of his kayak with mould release compound (even grease would work in a pinch) and laid up several layers of glass cloth and resin. Once the laminate cured he padded the underside with a thin layer of closed cell foam to prevent scuffing of the deck and installed the necessary hardware to secure the uphaul and trim the main sheet. He used sections of stainless steel welding rods embedded into the laminate to create guides for his lines but stainless steel saddles could be used as alternative.
His "plate" is held back by a thin line that loops around the coaming of the kayak, and in the front, under the deck bungee cord. The coaming line takes most of the load, the front bungee just keeps the plate close to the deck.
Jim's system can be removed in seconds when he does not use his sail. The base for the mast remains attached up front but there are no cleats and pulleys to clutter his deck.
PS 02DEC
Owen Walton has sent me these images of his sail set up.
It requires one more stay (back stay) but the sail can rotate freely 360 degrees.
The plastic cleats are low profile.
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