DIY: Candlefire ™

Camping often evokes thoughts of campfires.
It just seems that an evening at camp must have one. It’s like the moon and the tides; you can’t change that...
So when the administrators of National Parks around the world started to realize that too many of us having campfires in the wilderness were causing great degradation to the environment they decided to ban campfires.
Initially I took the news with disdain, followed by refusal and eventually I had a good look at the issue.
Fires cause tremendous impact in pristine wilderness. They scar the land.
Even if not escaping out of control with irreversible consequences (bush fires that kill lives and destroy property) even the mere little camp fires cause damage.
I love to travel in areas where there is little or no sign of human impact.
Unfortunately fires leave a scar that takes years to heal.
But I still want my fire; it just adds so much atmosphere.

Years ago, while in USA, somebody (Edgar Peralta) showed me the solution to this dilemma: make a fire in a can.
He produced this can that once lit looked like a small fire.
I couldn’t believe that simple thing would be a great surrogate to a real fire.
He explained to me the basic principles of fabricating one and I have since made hundreds of these.

You will need:
-candle wax (recycle your old unburned candles)
-medium sized empty can (tuna cans seems to work best)
- some cardboard
- pliers

Method:
Your can should be clean and dry.
You can place the can directly on the stove or have a much larger can to melt wax for the fabrication of multiple candlefires ™.
A word of caution: if you are generally a klutz and tend to spill and tip things probably you should not be handling hot wax, however if you can handle a bit of heat (so to speak), be careful and all will be good.
Wax is like oil. Do not spill any water into the liquid wax or an explosion of hot wax will spray everywhere.

Do not overheat wax: if it’s smoking there is great risk of imminent fire. Therefore stay at the stove while melting wax… don’t wonder off to the TV and watch the riveting Australian Idiot reruns…

Once the wax has melted, remove it from the stove with pliers.
Alternatively, if you have a large container of hot wax, carefully pour some into the empty cans, just below the brim.
You will need to insert a spiral of corrugated cardboard into the hot wax.
Add some “spikes” of cardboard that will act as starting wicks.

Let the can cool down before handling it with bare hands.

Candlefires ™ will give you a decent flame (small fire effect) for a couple of hours depending on the quality of the wax.
The great advantage of the candlefire ™ over the fire: people can sit all around without getting smoked out.

candlefires ™ at the table (timber has been protected)
Above pic is a time exposure. The flame is obviously much smaller...
The candlefire ™ is not more than a stove powered by wax therefore totally legal in all National Parks where open fires are not allowed but stoves are.
Light your candlefire ™ on a durable non flammable surface since once the candlefire ™ is lit the wax melts and can’t be repositioned.

Danger Eddie surfing Bribie

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SHOP: DIY lightweight tarp

The lightweight tarp has become one my favorite shelters.
Years ago I purchased a tarp from EMS because I liked the idea of being "outside" while still sheltered from the rain.
The tarp did not work too well.
It was too heavy and bulky (normal urethane coated fabric) and because of its catenary cut design (the sides were not straight cut but bowed) it did not allow to be pitched right to the ground and prevent splashback in case of rain.
Fast forward ten years and I reconsidered the idea.
A new material became available: SilNylon (Siliconized Nylon).
The stuff is very thin, light and surprisingly strong.

Sea to Summit sells a silicone one side, urethane coated on other side tarp.
Not as light and strong as true siliconized nylon though.
A fabric that has no coating will be inherently more tear resistant. The fabric can stretch an conform to stress forces way better than a “static” fabric like a coated one.
Therefore a tarp made from a fabric that stretches will also shape better when strung. It will almost assume a catenary design and minimize the dreaded flapping in the wind.
Unable to source a modestly priced silnylon tarp locally I set to make my own one.
Gee, how hard can it be to make a square tarp?

Sourcing the fabric proved to be the hardest.
I finally found a supplier that is happy to sell small quantities of the high tech fabric: Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics Inc. of Idaho.
Lynn Maine specializes in high end outdoor fabrics and sells to the consumer.

I have made several tarps to date with her silnylon fabrics.
Most weigh around 500-600 grams (18-20 oz.) for a 3.1X4mt tarps and take the space of a one litre bottle.
The tarp is sewn in the centre which then acts as the peak for the “roof”

enjoying a dry evening by the candlefire (TM)
I hem the sides by rolling the fabric and create a casing. A single “fold” is not sufficient since the fabric will eventually fray (despite what some light tent manufacturers say!)
The corners are reinforced by nylon ribbon tape (gross grain) about 30 cm along the hem, leaving a little loop in the corner for cord attachments.

The main central seam is sealed with SilNet sealer since other sealants will not stick to silicone.
In some tarps I add some attachment loops along the seam for hanging a night lamp or clothesline.

A complete basic tarp generally will cost me around US$50-60.
A much cheaper proposition than the commercial silnylon ones.

British style kayaks

One aspect of sea kayaking that excites me at the moment is playboating.
It offers all the right elements to keep me interested: skill building, adrenaline rush and fun with friends.
While the immediate waters of Moreton Bay usually don't evoke thoughts of rough waters on occasions you can come across some clapotis where, with the right kayak, a lot of fun can be had.
As most sea kayakers, I was introduced to the sport without knowing much about kayaks.
I am not the type of person that would endlessly research something before I commit.
I learn along the way.
If at the time I would have had a mentor or an experienced person to guide me I could have gained my skills faster and probably I would have avoided learning bad habits that later take so long to change.
I might have even started with a rudderless kayak so I would be forced to understand that a kayak is steered with the whole body, not just the pedals of a flimsy rudder.
Eventually I realized that for sea kayaking in demanding waters using my rudder was not the best solution. ("boner" on paddling.net comments: ....My previous kayak had a rudder, which hindered me from learning good paddling skills; very much like training wheels...)
I was intrigued by the virtues of a skegged boat but held back too afraid that it was all too hard.
Little I knew that the learning curve is not as drastic as feared.
Slowly I started to use my paddle not just for forward travel but also for directional adjustments. Eventually I started to lift the edge of my kayak and lean the boat when surfing down a wave.
How much more fun it all became once I understood what sea kayaking in rough waters was.
Kayaks were meant to go in all direction, not just forward.
Broached by a wave, skidding along sideways, spinning around and going backwards is now all part of the endless fun that the surf zone can bring me.
While expedition kayaking is just one aspect of my time in the sea I really like to play in confused waters.
Just like this:

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Less is more

If you are reading this post most likely you live in a structured society.
Chances are that most of your time is spent indoors and maybe you are wishing that you could be outside more.
Some of us just dab at the outdoors while if you are like me you make it a priority in life.
I also make sure that I spend a healthy amount of time sleeping away from the comforts of my home.
I am not talking about the "luxury" hotels that work sometimes takes me to, I am talking about camping.
I love being away from home and spend the night in the wilderness.
The further away from civilization the better.
In my opinion a real sense of achievement and adventure can only be had if little or no human disturbance is found in a place.
The experience is enriched further when I travel with less gear.
The years of travelling light in the wilderness with all the needed gear carried in my backpack has thought me to minimize and discard items that are really unnecessary.
I remember my early days of backpacking when I would schlep a rather large pack that most times would weigh around 20+ Kg (44Lbs) just for an overnight experience.
It used to require considerable effort and additional time to take me to the places I loved.
Admittedly the gear that I take with me today is technologically more advanced and consequently lighter but what made my pack smaller and lighter is the elimination of items that were not necessary to experience the healing nature of an outing.
I have come to the conclusion that if I have less "stuff" with me I tend to appreciate the place more.
I know that there are many that will think I am mad and they see no point of leaving behind the "essentials" to make camping comfortable.
These days my pack weight around 8Kg (18Lbs) when travelling light for a week end in the bush however I don't enjoy the outdoors any less than the days of heavy hauling.
When kayaking on overnight trips with my friends I am often puzzled why are their kayaks so incredibly heavy when helping them carry it up the beach.
On occasions I have actually refused to help them with a kayak that in my opinion was just too heavy. I suggested emptying the contents on the beach and then carry the unloaded kayak closer to camp. After all the most common kayaking injuries occur while carrying heavy boats.

So what have I changed and eliminated from my list that I found unnecessary?

While backpacking I realized that there is no need to carry a heavy large tent.
These days I often go away with just a light tarp. Used correctly it often offers the same level of comfort as a tent. And while the tent gives the non experienced outdoorsmen a sense of safety by being totally enclosed it robs them the pleasure of still seeing the world around them while sheltered from the elements.
If bighting insects are a possibility I add a mosquito net.
My totally weatherproof shelter can be as light as 500 grm (18oz.).
There are times though where wind could be an issue where I prefer to take just the fly and poles of my tent leaving behind the heavier part, the inner tent.

rainy and windy night with just the fly of the Hillberg Nallo
There are numerous items that I no longer take with me because I found that I never use those items.
I have revised my cooking (bulky and heavy inefficient metho stove, redundant multiple pots) and my clothing (several bulky items that offer little insulation and are not suitable around camp... these days amuses me to see jeans worn around camp on wilderness trips...).
I also have a light sleeping bag since most locales have mild temperatures. I don’t take an air mattress that often offers little warmth and is incredibly bulky and heavy; a compact self inflating matt does the job for my horizontal times.
(details here)
The list goes on. My pack or kayak weigh less and I can travel faster and more efficiently.
To teach myself and others on how to travel light occasionally I organize a trip where the goal is to take only the very minimal essentials.
Tents, chairs and tables are never seen around camp when we kayak or walk light.

ultralight camping at Peel Island
Even if fires are not permitted, some of us elect to not even take any cooking equipment since realistically not really needed just for a night out.
Improvising from the few items that we have is part of the fun and surprisingly most of us don’t wish for the luxuries left behind.

I found that travelling with less gear awakens your senses and enriches the experience.
The biggest culprit seems to be the electronic gear that pervades some trips.
The constant scanning of the GPS and data that it feeds (or the noise of the VHF radio) is in my opinion a total waste of time.
No doubt that it is a great tool used wisely and for safety but it alienates me from my surrounding. Being worried of my progress, speed and constant knowledge of my location in a non essential situation is an invasion of my freedom and peace.
Somebody gave me a GPS probably 10 years ago… I still have not used it. Call me old school but I have only once wished for it when caught in a blizzard. On the other hand it was not a life threatening situation and instead of trying to make my travel very hard, I just set up camp and sit out the storm.
If I kayak in waters that require a GPS I make sure that I invite a geek along that will keep me informed… :-)

Shark training?

As an avid sea kayaker I often come across other paddlers that use their craft primarily for fishing.
I have fished from the kayak myself (with mixed results) and find it great fun and rewarding.

Vanilla's catch
While not exactly a mad fisherman myself, I know of folks that regularly hit the water in a kayak to go fishing.
They have outfitted their vessel with all sorts of technology to increase their chances of reeling in the big ones.
I also have heard of kayakers using burley to attract their catch.
Observing several kayaks not far away from shore at one of my paddling spots I asked the local kayaker if the fishing was good.
The reply was that most times was great however lately it has been rather hard to land any of the catches.
He lamented the presence of a tiger shark that was stalking the kayakers and snatching the hooked fish before they could be landed on board.
While hearing of sharks taking your fish before it's in your hands is nothing new (most "stink boaties" can confirm that) what is different in this case it the type of craft used on the water.
Admittedly a kayak is much smaller in size and much closer to the water than let's say a "tinny" (small aluminium boat) and its occupant is much more vulnerable to a potential shark attack.
Reports of sharks bumping into paddling kayaks (even not fishing) are not unusual.
There are several cases of sharks actually having a nibble at the craft with teeth marks to prove the close encounter.
My question is: are we training our sharks to associate kayaks with easy food and potentially lead them to attack us (recent Sydney Harbor incident) ?
Would in the years to come this be a real concern for all paddlers in shark habitats?
While sharks have learned to follow ships where scraps are tossed overboard all the time I think sharks will soon learn that kayaks could represent a food source.

PS APR10 this article/video is quite scary

North Shore Atlantic_test paddle

Fresh from the Rock&Roll in Umina (premier NSW Sea Kayak Club event) I have come back impressed with the test paddle of the North Shore Atlantic.

While there were many high end sea kayaks to test paddle the only one that I have not tried yet was the Atlantic (many others too but my legs' size would allow me only so many that fit).
The Atlantic could be described as an in-between my Impex Assateague and my Currituck.

The kayak is superbly finished (expected since it's manufactured by Valley) and I really like the two tone "spill" gel coat of the hull. It's not a sticker, it's actually gel coat.


The cockpit fits me a bit snug and if I had to own one (strongly considering) I would drop the seat a fraction to allow my chunky legs fit with a bit of a wiggle.
As is, the cockpit probably suits a medium sized person.
While not as snug fit as a standard Valley cockpit the one of the Atlantic was just a bit roomier but the thigh braces were still very solid and excellently shaped.


The conditions for my test paddle were initially very mild (rather flat sea) that progressively got more bumpy with small sized swell and chop.
Further along there was some rebound from the cliffs and the wind increased to possibly gusts of 20 knots.
The Atlantic tracked relatively well in most conditions without the need of the skeg.
I deployed it only once I encountered following sea.

The kayak was great to edge offering decent initial stability and outstanding secondary stability.
I felt more at ease in the Atlantic than in my Currituck (possibly I am a bit heavy for the Impex...).
I was very pleased with my test paddle of the Atlantic and after a 4 hours paddle in the variety of conditions I now can say that I would recommend that boat.


The hull and deck felt solid (no flex when pushed on with hand) and while the importer (http://www.expeditionkayaks.com/) would not classify it as true expedition boat it just lacks the absolute security that a standard lay up of a Valley or NDK would offer for rock landings.
It certainly feels much stronger than some so called expedition worthy kayaks that I have come across... and the kayak was reasonably easy on the shoulder when carried solo. Way easier than my Valley Nordkapp LV.

If rudderless paddling is your style I think the Atlantic might be worth considering.

SHOP: DIY sea kayak sail

SEA KAYAK SAILby Damiano Visocnik © 2008

My first sea kayak (used) came with a sail.
I loved the thing. My background is windsurfing therefore using the wind was obvious.
The sea kayak had a step mast sail rig that I soon found out had several limitations over a windsurfer.
I realized that I will not be able to use as much wind as I used to on the windsurfer: the kayak lacks a dagger board and unfortunately drifts sideways a fair bit.
The rudder would prevent some drift and would give me some directional steering.
My step mast set up was however preventing me from paddling while I would sail: the boom was too low and close to me.
Never satisfied with a commercially available product (that's my motto), I set to design and fabricate my own sailing rigs.
After 8 sails and a few modifications I am getting closer to what I can be happy with.

A sail must be:a) light
b) easy to deploy and store
c) sturdy enough to take a stiff breeze (desirably around a max of 35 knots)
d) allow me to paddle when under sail.
The original design inspiration came from Sea Mongrel’s sail on his Polar Bear kayak.
In my opinion that sail could be improved in a few areas and therefore I set out to redesign it.

1) MAST
I started off with a mast and boom made from 16mm Ø aluminium tubing.
The tubing can be purchased from most hardware stores.
(MAY2008: After extensive research I discovered that generic aluminium from the hardware store is not good enough. A 6000 series alloy possibly anodised would be the preferred material.)I reinforced the tubing with a core of timber dowel. Unfortunately the mast would still bend under winds of above of 25 knots.
The second generation mast was made from thin walled stainless steel. I am not sure if this mast was any stronger but it still bent at 35 knots wind.
I am now using a custom made carbon fibre mast that has a thick wall.

Ready made fibreglass tubes are available from CG Composites.

The mast has an anchor point for the stays (rope/cables that hold the mast in position) at about 2/3 of the way. The anchor point is a stainless steel welded ring that is attached to the mast with a small shaped strap of stainless steel (alternatively a strong nylon strap will do). Drill the mast and pop rivet the strap into place.

The base of the mast is anchored to the front of the kayak very close to the bow. I found that this position neutralises weathercocking and the kayak could be sailed in any wind direction even with just a skegged kayak (a step mast rig requires ample use of the rudder).

2) REINFORCING THE DECK
The deck of the kayak must be most times reinforced.
Most kayaks have a relatively flexible deck and are not designed to be loaded with the force of a sail.
If the deck is peaked (not flat) then sometimes is possible to forego the reinforcement.
I prefer to have a very sturdy set up that won’t give me grief down the road… err, sea (?)
If the deck is very light I prefer to reinforce mine with a couple of layers of woven fibreglass (or carbon) and epoxy.
I usually create a ridge (with PVC tube cut in half, foam core material or half moon dowel, slotted) contoured to the shape of the under deck.
I use a heat gun to make the PVC soft and place it hard against the kayak to give it the desired shape. For the foam core or dowel I just slot them and shape to suit the undeck.
I place the woven fibreglass cloth with the resin already infused and drape it over the ridge.
The kayak is hanging belly up (hull side up) and I work through the tight confinement of the front hatch opening. Be prepared to get your hands dirty.


3) MAST ANCHOR TO DECK
The mast is typically attached to the kayak with a tiller extension device.The device allows easy attachment and removal of the sail kit.

A ) Ronstan makes a stainless steel model that is sturdy enough for the loads that the wind generates on the mast base. http://www.ronstan.com.au/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF1127


The base must allow the mast to be lowered and stored on the deck of the kayak while remaining attached to the kayak.
The base must also rotate on its axis to allow the mast to swing left to right according to boom position when trimming a sail (if boom is fixed on mast).
What the Ronstan stainless steel tiller extension unit does not allow though, is vertical side to side movement. Potentially this could cause some problems.

(PS MAY08: in high winds there is the chance to crack the deck when lowering the mast sideways)
B ) Alternatively a tiller extension that uses a polymer (rubber) knuckle can be used. Although promising, I am still testing the effects of side loads on the unit. (PS SEP08: after several months of testing this version is now the preferred one)

Base in epoxy resin and carbon fibre to spread the vertical load that is exerted onto the deck

C ) A third version of the mast foot can be made from the Ronstan tiller extension above (RF1127), a saddle and a D-shackle as base on deck.

I like this last version since it allows vertical and lateral movements of the mast.
Deploying and taking down the sail while at sea can create at times side loads that the standard tiller extension base (RF1127) transfers to the deck of the kayak.
(MAY 2008: THIS VERSION IS CURRENTLY UNDER REVIEW; some odd side loading issues with hardware)
4 ) BOOM ATTACHMENT TO MAST
The boom is attached to the mast with a Ronstan tiller extension. The base of the tiller extension (rotating knuckle) should be welded and attached to the mast with 4mm bolts.
The mast should be reinforced here since most of the wind load will be exerted to this spot.
A sleeve or internal reinforcement (dowel) is recommended.

The alternative is a canopy fitting but this will not allow the use a tubular boom.
A boom made from a fibreglass batten (canopy fitting) is in my opinion too weak. I have seen several fail.
In version B) and C) the mast does not rotate on its axis and the boom must be attached to the mast via a collar that will freely spin around the mast.
I have been unable to find such fitting (for a tubular boom) and I had to fabricate my own one out of a stainless steel strip.
At the top and bottom of the collar you can install a sleeve that keeps the boom in the correct position and prevents it from sliding up or down the mast.


collar for boom on mast

5 ) DECK RIGGING
The mast and the boom must be controlled from the cockpit of the kayak.
You have to be able to deploy the sail while paddling and be able to trim the sail for various wind direction.

The mast is hoisted with a sheet (rope) that is attached from half way up the mast (forestay) to the front of the kayak, through a little pulley, and then back towards the cockpit.


The sheet is then held to the deck with a cleat or a cam cleat.

All cleats should be fastened to the deck close to the cockpit and be easily operated but should not interfere with paddling.
Make sure that your knuckles will not bump into the cleats!
All fittings should have a decent size washer under the deck, especially if the layup of your kayak is light.
Every kayak deck is different and the perfect position of the cleats will be determined by the user.
Use only 3-4 mm size cord since it is more then sufficient for the loads of the sail. Use a sheeted polyester cord that will offer a decent grip on the cleats or slippage will occur especially on the forestay cleat.

The rope that trims the boom (main sheet) will pass through a small pulley attached to the deck of the kayak with a little saddle. To secure the sheet into position, a cam cleat (RF5001) is better then an ordinary cleat since the boom might be adjusted frequently while sailing.

6 ) STAYS
I have used stainless steel for my stays in the past but I found that the cable is too rough on the sail.
I prefer to use now 3mm Dyneema (Spectra) cord. The sheet is unbelievably strong (rated at 650 Kg) and very easy to work with.
The anchor points for the stays are two stainless steel saddles bolted to the reinforced deck of the kayak. Large washers are used under the deck and nylock nuts to prevent unwanted loosening of the fittings.
On some kayaks you can use the fitting that attaches the perimeter line as stay anchors (image below)
A D-shackle (with a wing (flared) pin end will allow install and removal without tools) connects the stay to the saddle.

7 ) SAIL
The sail design itself is obviously the most important element.
The sail should not be too large or it might be overwhelming in high winds.
The whole rig, when folded on the deck, should not intrude over the cockpit area.
The top of the mast should be somewhere in the vicinity of the front of the coaming.
When specifying the length of the mast, boom and battens it is best if all 3 end up being the same length when folded on deck.
The mast will need to be slightly longer while the boom and batten should be of the same length.
The sail has a sleeve where the mast slips into.
A small cut off is needed where the stays are attached to (halfway up the mast).
A clear PVC window is desirable to allow you to view ahead of you when sailing.
The sail should have a slanted boom to create enough clearance for paddling or you will be hitting the boom when paddling.

sail for a mast of 1400 mm

sail for a mast of 1350 mm

The sail is not of my manufacture since it is a science and an art to create an efficient sail.
The sail must be shaped correctly to have enough draft and “catch” the wind.
Since I have very little knowledge in sail making, I have not bothered sourcing the materials and sew the sail myself.

Mick MacRobb from Flat Earth Kayak Sails (http://www.flatearthkayaksails.com/) is my current sail maker.

He can sew just the sail or he makes complete sails with all the necessary hardware.

Admittedly not everybody wants to spend the time (and has the knowldge) to make the hardware for the sail.

Mick's complete sails are ready to install often requiring little more than a cordless drill.

JUL 2012: Updates on the sail set up here
Notes:
- I have used all Ronstan fittings references because they are available locally. I am sure that other fittings of similar description are quite suitable for the job.
- Pacific Composites from Coopers Plains in Queensland, Australia have fabricated the carbon fibre tubes of the desired specifications.
- Despite my best efforts to engineer the sail rig and specifying my findings in this document I assume no responsibility if anyone replicates my design. It is the sole responsibility of the user to make sure he/she is totally satisfied with the design before they set out to the seven seas.

Flat Earth Kayak Sail on left, my design on right

For more images of sails used in the field (or should that be sea :-) check http://www.flickr.com/photos/gnarlydog/sets/72157600524255302/

Damiano Visocnik

Customer service and loyalty

I often wonder why people are loyal to a brand or product.
What is it that makes them support a brand large or small?
Why would anybody praise a product?

I do understand a sponsored individual that has been paid to endorse or use a particular brand but why would an individual that has parted his/her hard earned cash to actually purchase a product than go about advertising for the company for free?
I am probably just as guilty as a lot of folk out there.
I label my products, I let people know what I use and often defend the brand if somebody seems to be rubbishing it publicly.

So why am I driven to do so?
Maybe because I am insecure and I want to convince myself that my choice was the right one and I want others to know that I have not done a mistake?
Maybe because I want to boast that I can afford those items and make myself feel superior in owning them?
Or is it something more profound that is deep in our complex human behavior?...

I took stock of the brands that I believe in and that I have been endorsing.
There are several but certainly not all.
I have a lot of gear. Really, a lot.
Accumulated throughout the years of backpacking, mountain biking and now sea kayaking I have used a lot of products.
I have also tested products and consulted to outdoor gear manufacturers in the past but those are not the companies that necessarily I am loyal to.
So why am I fond of some products and not others?
I guess it does come down to the actual use and the satisfaction of when a product performs well.
Sure, we all like to let our peers know that we have found something that is good.

But it is not always that, it is not always the products that work for us.
It's often for products that did not work out the way we expected.
What? are you nuts?
Let me explain.
After decades of using products it is just a matter of time to come across products that don't work or just fail.
Sometimes is a single unit that had a manufacturing glitch, sometimes is a design flaw for a product that was not tested well enough and released onto the market prematurely.
The fundamental thing is: what was the experience of the after sale customer service?
Yes, that's it.

I am usually a loyal endorser of a brand when the company producing the faulty item has come good when things went wrong.
Things go wrong, stuff brakes and things jam and fail.
Often is user error, sometimes is accident but occasionally there really is a fault in the product.

Brian Towell
User error: smashed by huge wave. Werner replaced paddle at cost.
And while some would just say: "this is rubbish, I will never buy it again..." , I believe in warranties.
I usually buy high end products and with it's high price tag I expect a solid warranty.
So when my bike gear, backpack or kayak related item fails (not by accident) I contact the retailer that I purchased it from.
The results are mixed: some retailers are very reasonable and when presented with a genuine warranty claim they will honor it.
Some other retailers are not so good and try to shoe you off to the manufacturer or importer directly.
They just don't want the hassle; after all there is nothing in for them.
But that's where they are wrong.

I personally resent doing business with retailers that will not help you in case of a faulty product that they have sold you.
Admittedly dealing directly with the manufacturer could be faster and better, but that's for me to decide.
So, when I had a positive experience with customer service (and it has not always been about stuff that broke, often is just advice/clarifications) I will undoubtedly praise their products.
Somehow if feels like that a personal relationship has been established with the manufacturer and knowing that they were there for you when I needed them has earned them my trust.

There are currently several retailers and manufacturers that I deal with that understand this subtle psychological factor.
Build a trust with your customer.
And while some operators are fly-by-night affairs others are in for the long run.
A word of advice to the outdoor industry: look after your customer when he has a problem and you will build a long lasting commercial relationship that most certainly will go beyond that initial sale you have generated.
After all most of us have mates and we tend to tell each other our bad or good experiences.
More so in the outdoors: it's a small world...

SHOP: sea kayak paddle park

After reading about some arguments that spare paddles on a sea kayak should be accessible to the paddler while seated in the cockpit I reconsidered my current location of having my paddles strapped to the deck towards the stern of my kayaks.
The paddles were rather secure and have never come off even in the surf but they are not as easily accessible as being in front of me.
The standard configuration of the bungee cords on my kayaks would allow the paddles to be secured on the foredeck however assistance would be needed to reposition them in the event they would be removed while under way, paddling.
The bungee cords don't allow a shaft of a split paddle to be reinserted from the cockpit position.

I have come across some images of custom "paddle parks" of kayaks in the UK but I have never seen such accessories for sale.
Having a closer look at the images I realized that really does not take a rocket scientist to fabricate one of those "exhaust pipes".

A few simple supplies from the local hardware store and an hour later I had my paddle parks ready to install on the deck of my kayak.
I used: 40 mm Ø PVC plumbing tube with 90° elbows glued and cut to lenght. A can of spray flat black paint to make them look good.
Some holes drilled at the base of the tubes are needed for attaching the tubes to the deck bungees. The exact location will depend on the kayak's bungee configuration.

spare split paddle on the foredeck of a SeaBird Designs NorthSea

While looking at images of spare paddle locations I also came across a design where the paddles were kept secure via "tubes" made of fabric.
That idea appealed to me even more than the hard PVC tubes and after a brief design session I came up with this.



The fabric was sourced from a sail making shop (but any heavy duty nylon would probably be OK). The entrance to the tubes is oversized so it's easy to insert the shaft of the paddle while seated in the cockpit. The tubes taper so eventually pinch the paddle shaft and keep the paddle secure.
The soft paddle park has webbing tabs on the edges for securing it to the perimeter lines of the kayak.
I even used some retroreflective fabric for enhanced visibility at night.
Only a long term test on the water will show the pros and cons of the two systems.
Since every kayak deck has different bungees configuration and a different width an exact drawing with dimension is not useful.

Version 3.0 (APR09) allows adjustment for different deck types.
A similar commercially available product appears to be much larger and possibly not as streamlined. Obviously a commercial product has to accommodate for so many different kayak deck styles and some compromise had to be reached.

PS 21JUN: On Douglas Wilcox's blog, Seakayakphoto, I came across a simpler solution than the "exhaust pipes". Doug has used tubes that are attached directly to the perimeter lines

photo: Douglas Wilcox_used with permission
(full rez image here)
He assured me that the paddle shafts don't catch in the waves and that they stay put on deck.


alternative tubes: fishing rod holders (from NSWSKC member)